Travel stories, regional discoveries and slow journeys across Australia, New Zealand and beyond. From rail travel, art and culture, to lesser-known destinations, this is where the experience of getting there becomes part of the story.

Fancy Hunting for Boulder Opal? Start at Winton

IF YOU’VE ever fancied yourself striking it lucky on an Australian opal field but felt it was daunting, the annual Winton Opal Festival is your chance to get the lowdown on all things Boulder Opal.

In July 2021, the Winton Opal Festival and Trade Show had everything for anyone interested in opal, Australia’s National Gemstone, and future years promise the same.

The Queensland Boulder Opal Association organised a line-up of 10 speakers to talk about opal mining, mine compliance, cutting, designing, valuing opal, jewellery, and more.

Stephen Tasic from Winton Opal Gems said visitors had the opportunity to liaise directly with miners, buyers and jewellers and even meet a genuine Outback Opal Hunter.

The Winton Opal Festival and Trade Show, which is open to the public, is the first event on the annual circuit for Australia’s eastern states, with shows in opal-producing areas such as Winton, Yowa and Lightning Ridge.

This year, QBOA will hold a second Opal Festival in September, coinciding with Winton’s famous biannual Outback Festival.

The festival usually attracts hundreds of people, so it is wise to book your accommodation well in advance.

For more details, visit https://www.qboa.com.au/opalfestival/

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Stephen Tasic holds Boulder Opal at Winton Opal Gems.

Winton Opal Gems, Stephen Tasic

Stephen Tasic’s Opal Journey

Second-generation opal miner and part-time jewellery designer Stephen Tasic said his family came to opal mining in the mid-1980s.

“I came out here to Winton as a kid on school holidays from the Atherton Tablelands,” he said.

“My father was mining and buying opal from other miners. My family then sold the opal at the Kuranda markets through the 80s and 90s to visiting Australians, Americans, Japanese and other internationals.

“I found my first opal about three feet deep when I was about 16 years old. I think that memory pretty well hooked me, I got the fever, but it lay dormant for a few years!”

Stephen’s shop carries all kinds of opals, including Queensland’s Boulder Opal, White Crystal Opal from Coober Pedy and Andamooka in South Australia, as well as Black Opal from Lightning Ridge in New South Wales.

“I even have some Mexican and some Ethiopian Opal. I like all opal, no matter where it is from.”

Stephen said his ongoing opal journey takes him from Winton in the winter months to wholesaling with opal and jewellery shops around Australia in the summer months.

“Eight years ago, this journey led me to the biggest gem show in the world in Tucson, Arizona, selling and showcasing Australian opals to American designers. I’ve done many trips to the US in the past eight years.

“It has been an exciting journey. There is so much to learn, and there is a new challenge every day. It’s a constant learning curve from exploration to mining, cutting, wholesaling, designing and retailing.

“This isn’t like working a normal job, for me anyway. There are so many aspects to the opal industry that many people rarely realise.”

Boulder Opal Fossicking Tips

Stephen Tasic’s top tip on how to fossick for opal is: “Eat your carrots so you have good eyes!”

“You can go to Winton’s Waltzing Matilda Centre or the bush park at Opalton and pay for a permit to fossick at the designated fossicking area in Opalton. Then take a spray bottle and go for your life,” he said.

“When you pick up the stone and have a look, it pays to spray it with water to see the colour hidden in the boulder.

“We have a fossicking pit in front of our shop so we can show people what to look for.”

Stephen said some of the “gemmiest” opal was often inside the rock.

“It’s a fine gem line, like the one I found when I was 16 years old.

“That was the finest, smallest line, and I didn’t think much of it, but once cut, you could see it was a top gem. I wish I had it now. It would have appreciated.”

Opalton to Jundah Run

Some of the best Queensland opals come from the run between Opalton and Jundah, which is more than 200km long by 60km wide.

“This run is prolific for producing some of the best quality opals,” Stephen said.

“The trinity of Australian opals is the Boulder, Black and Crystal opals, and we get all of it out here on the Queensland fields.

“Over the years, Crystal Opal coming out of Opalton, 120km out of Winton, has been prolific in volume and quality.

“But out here we mainly get the beautifully patterned Boulder Opal, which can often be brighter, more durable and better value than other opals.

“It’s mostly open-cut mining out here. I’m not a fan of underground mining, but over 800 old-timers during the Opal Rush before World War I were digging underground at Opalton for the spectacular Crystal Opal.

“Outside of the hand-mining area, we use excavators, bulldozers and drills to search for the opal.

“There’s so much potential here. There’s so much still under the ground. The only issue is that there’s so much dirt with it that it comes down to the economics of it.

“You need to be a jack of all trades, an operator, a bush mechanic, and above all, very patient.

“But if the old-timers did it, why can’t we? We just have to spend the time out in the bush.”

PHOTO GALLERY: WINTON

Getting into the Opal Industry

Anyone interested in a career in the opal industry could start with doing apprenticeships in mining, as a machine operator, or in cutting opal, Stephen said.

“Opal mining is largely small-scale mining, and not all of us are doing it for the money.

“It’s more about small family businesses or partnerships than it is about full-scale industrial mining.

“It’s a passion, and about uncovering Australia’s National Gemstone and presenting it in the best light we can to the world.

“Ninety-five per cent of the world’s sedimentary opal comes from Australia. We’re pretty lucky with that.

“If this resource were in any other country, 100 per cent of our opal fields would be claimed, or pegged, and being worked.”

Valuing Boulder Opal

Stephen Tasic said the value of Boulder Opal was largely in the eye of the beholder.

“It often depends on what you’re attracted to, but a general guide, the brighter or darker the opal, the more colours it has, the bigger the stone, or the cleaner the face, the more valuable it is.

“Then, there is the trump card, which is its pattern. The rarity of the pattern can change an opal from $100 a carat to $1000 a carat.

“The rarer the pattern, the more desirable and valuable the opal is.”

Boulder Opals as investments

Stephen said buying Bounder Opal was a wonderful investment, not only for its appreciation value but also for sentimental value.

“We have what we call fun stones at the lower end of the market. Then there are picture stones, the commercial grade, and then the high grade.

“Then there’s the super-high investment grade, which rarely gets showcased in Australia.

“Super-high investment-grade opal is available in Winton, Lightning Ridge and Coober Pedy with certain dealers and shopkeepers. You just need to ask for it.

“It helps that you have done your research first and have a budget in mind when talking with an opal dealer or shopkeeper, but when you find that special piece, sometimes the budget goes out the window! ”

NEED ACCOMMODATION IN WINTON? VISIT BOOKING.COM


Boulder Opal Jewellery

Boulder Opal Necklace

Boulder Opal, Winton Opal Gems, Necklace.

Having your opals made into jewellery is a popular way to showcase your stones.

“Our award-winning jeweller has worked with Opals for over 30 years,” Stephen said.

“He’s very experienced. There’s a real art to it.”

Stephen also designs some jewellery and enters annual design competitions.

“Every piece of opal has a story that can lend itself to its own special one-of-a-kind design.

“If someone has a special piece of opal jewellery they would like advice about, including how to look after it or have it valued, they’re welcome to bring it to our shop while they’re visiting Winton.”

 

 

 

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What’s strange in the Granite Belt Wine Region?

Something strange is happening in the Granite Belt Wine Region of South East Queensland, and it’s not just the birds.

Affiliate Disclosure: Some links in this article are affiliate links. If you purchase through them, I may receive a small commission. It doesn’t cost you anything extra, and it helps support the ongoing work behind Jocelyn Magazine.

SOON after driving into Stanthorpe last November, I heard about the Strange Bird Wine Trail, which advertises its wineries as offering personalised, unhurried wine experiences.

To qualify as a Strange Bird wine, the alternative wines of the Granite Belt Wine Region must represent no more than one per cent of Australian wine varieties.

Excellent! I’d experience something different here.

Grapes

Well, that statement was certainly true. As I nosed around the area, I found not only Strange Birds but also a number of other strange things that raised my eyebrows.

The South African expat owners of Rumbulara Estate Wines were showing Buffalos, Elephants, Rhinos, Leopards and Lions.

Ridgemill Estate had Moggies, Three-legged foxes, Sly dogs, Howling dogs and even Hungry horses.

At Wyberba, what used to be a Balancing Rock was now a Balancing Heart. And, near Glen Aplin, there was a Jester on the Hill.

The strangest of the strange was at Harrington Glen Estate, where the jovial host took great delight in showing off not only the train he was converting into cabins but also his man cave!

My New Guinea-born host invited me to look behind his bar to the mezzanine floor where his man cave was located, complete with a large television, computer games and books.

He also gave me a great commentary on the upcoming US presidential election and his reviews of the movie streaming services.

Oh, and I did get to taste his Verdelho, as well as some dessert and fortified wines, eventually.

As I left, my host said that next time, I might like to invite some friends along, bring some cheese and crackers from ALDI, relax beside his bar, and enjoy his wine and vineyard view.

Clearly, the winery owners in and around Stanthorpe, a three-hour drive southwest of Brisbane, have a sense of humour.

They’ve needed it. The year 2020 has gone down in history as one of their worst yet.

After five years of drought and devastating bushfires in the summer of 2019-20 that burned more than 12.6 million hectares of land across Australia, many wineries were left with no crop to harvest and others with just 10 to 25 per cent.

Hot on the heels of these disasters was the COVID-19 pandemic and global shutdowns.

Faced with such adversities, the Granite Belt Wine Region people had to get creative if they were to survive.

Most had water trucked in to keep their vines alive; many bought grapes from other regions, and others started blending varieties, something they wouldn’t do normally, from what little was left of their harvest.

My host at Ballandean Estate Wines said that when the COVID-19 shutdowns started in March 2020, they were seriously concerned about their future.

“By August, no one was coming in, no one was buying. But, soon people started buying online and once we re-opened we were smashed,” she said.

“My daughter said we should tell Scott Morrison to get organised now to close Australia down every five years so people will spend their money in this country.”

And spend I did, visiting eight wineries over my two-day whirlwind tour of the Granite Belt Wine Region. At each, I bought one or two, and sometimes three or more, of their finest wines.

Granite Belt Wine Region Tour

Granite Ridge Wines

Granite Belt Wine Region - Clear wine glasses

The range at Granite Ridge Wines included Chardonello and Caberaz. The Chardonello was a combination of Chardonnay and Verdelho, crisp but not too dry.

Its brother, the Caberaz, was a blend of Cabernet and Shiraz, making it a light easy-drinking red with coconut, leather and spice aromas.

Website: Granite Ridge Wines

Balancing Heart Vineyards

New owner Greg Kentish has made significant changes at what used to be Balancing Rock Wines.

Granite Belt Wine Region - Balancing Rock Winery

Not only had he changed the winery’s name, but he also introduced new wines and a range of modern, colourful labels.

Their Energy & Grace Chardonnay had a typical Chardonnay character but was lighter and more delicate with wild fig and rockmelon aromas.

The Evolve & Inspire Viognier had lots of stone fruit character, such as dried apricot and creamy peach.

Blossom, a Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé, had lots of strawberry character with a well-developed ruby colour.

Website: Balancing Heart Vineyards

Golden Grove Estate Wines

Granite Belt Wine Region - Lady serving wine

The 2020 Vermentino, made with fruit sourced from Mildura, was a 60/40 blend of Chardonnay and Sémillon, with floral, stone fruit and sea spray aromas.

Their 2019 Durif had a red berry flavour and hints of cedar. It’s ideal for drinking now for freshness or to tuck away for up to eight years to soften and mellow.

The 2018 Joven Tempranillo was a medium-bodied style of Tempranillo made for early consumption with fresh cherry and red berry fruit to set the tone for things to come.

Website: Golden Grove Estate 

Rumbulara Estate Wines

Granite Belt Wine Region - man serving wine

The five animal-themed wines – Buffalo, Elephant, Rhino, Leopard and Lion – were designed to be consumed much colder than traditional wines and are preservative-free.

Buffalo, a lunchtime Chardonnay, was deliberately made not to taste like a Chardonnay.

Elephant, more suited to mid-afternoon, was designed to be consumed without food. It has residual sweetness with more fruit and body.

Rhino was made to drink with strong cheeses such as blue or vintage. Customers wanted a wine that tastes like fresh grapes, so Rhino was made from Waltham Cross, an eating grape, not a wine grape. Our host said Rhino was the only wine in the world made from Waltham Cross grapes.

Leopard and Lion are simply grape juice and alcohol. Our host said they’re the only wines made in Australia deliberately to go to zero degrees Celsius. Made the same initially, they both sit in the tanks as lions. When they want to bottle some Leopard, they add unfermented Shiraz, which sweetens it from Lion to Leopard.

Website: Rumbulara Estate Wines

Jester Hill Wines

Granite Belt Wine Region - External view of cellar door

Our host at Jester Hill Wines said it’s the only winery in Queensland to commercially make wine with Roussanne, a white wine grape grown originally in the Rhône wine region in France.

Eleven other Australian wineries that use it are located in other states.

Jester Hill’s 2017 Touchstone Roussanne is a dry, crisp, wooded white.

Their Chardonnay is a lighter style. Rather than being full buttery, it has a creamy feel to it with some of the pineapple flavour coming through. It’s not as heavy as some Chardonnays.

Joker’s Blush Rosé is made on Merlot and is a sweeter style with a hint of dryness.

Their Sangiovese Rosé is a dry, crisp style with a lot of guava.

The 2 Fools Trinculo Red is a Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon blend and light, like a Pinot, with an aroma of cherries and soft plums.

The Muckle John Fortified Shiraz is smooth with a hint of dryness and tastes much like a Christmas cake.

Website: Jester Hill Wines

Ridgemill Estate

Granite Belt Wine Region - Lady showing wine bottle

At Ridgemill Estate, their Semillon Viognier Riesling, named Hungry Horse, is nice and light.

They also have an off-dry Riesling that’s fruitier than Hungry Horse, if you want something drier than a Chardonnay.

They had a new 2020 Rosé that’s a unique blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Grenache, and Chardonnay, that is very floral on the nose.

Their straight Verdelho is a sweet, fruity white called Moggies.

Howling Dog is their liqueur, Black Muscat, aged at just over five years, and not for drinking on a full moon!

As our host said, their Sly Dog, a fortified Verdelho with a touch of liqueur Muscat, sneaks up on you, so it comes in a smaller bottle for your protection. It has nougat, raisins and nut flavours with a hint of rosewater.

The Three-Legged Fox is a bitza–bits of Cabernet and bits of Merlot and even bits of other varieties from time to time.

Website: Ridgemill Estate

 

Granite Belt Wine Region - View of winery

Harrington Glen Estate in Queensland’s Granite Belt Wine Region.

 

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About the Author

Jocelyn Watts is a writer, photographer and editor of Jocelyn Magazine. Based on Queensland’s Fraser Coast, she explores food not just as nourishment, but as memory, culture and connection.

 

Mary Ann’s priceless nameplate comes home

A PRICELESS piece of Queensland’s railway history has reappeared after 127 years.

Ipswich railway enthusiast Merv Volker, who visited Maryborough last week, has donated the nameplate from the original Mary Ann locomotive to the Whistlestop museum, where its replica locomotive is housed.

Mary Ann was the first steam locomotive built in Queensland by John Walker & Co. Ltd. in 1873 for William Pettigrew and William Sim.

The timber pioneers used the loco to haul logs in the Tin Can Bay area, but she vanished in 1893 after a Mary River flood and fire at the Dundathu sawmill where she was stored.

In 1999, Maryborough engineer Peter Olds launched a full-size replica that he and his team at Olds Engineering built using just three historic photographs to guide its creation.

The Mary Ann replica is now an iconic attraction in Maryborough, regularly chuffing her way through Queens Park pulling carriages filled with enthusiastic sightseers.

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Where has Mary Ann’s nameplate been for 127 years?

Mr Volker, a former Granville resident and now volunteers at the Ipswich railway museum, said he bought the solid brass curved plate bearing the name ‘Mary Ann’ from a long-time friend in Gympie.

“He had it for some years before I bought it from him 23 years ago,” Mr Volker said.

“I don’t know how he came to have it, and I don’t want to say how much I paid, but it wasn’t a lot.

“Several times I’ve been going to bring it up to Maryborough, but I’ve had doubts about its authenticity.

“I couldn’t give the museum something that was a reproduction. Peter can make his own reproductions – I don’t need to give them one.”

Is it the original nameplate?

Mr Olds said he was thrilled to receive the “priceless” railway artefact from Mr Volker.

“It has to be the genuine plate,” he said. “You just can’t put a price on this type of history.”

Telltale signs include it having a reverse curve and no grooves on the back.

“We also got a piece of plate off an old boiler that’s three feet six diameter and it fits exactly.

“And, the shape of lettering on the plate is identical to the lettering shown in the old photographs.”

Mr Olds said the nameplate would have been attached to Mary Ann’s original boiler with two screws.

“There’d be steam pressure on those screws and they wouldn’t come out too easily. Whoever took it off would have had to do so with great care.

“It’s amazing the plate is still in such good condition, apart from being slightly bent.”

What will happen to the historic nameplate?

Mr Olds said the Maryborough City Whistlestop committee was planning to fix the original nameplate to the Mary Ann replica.

“It’ll be on the rear end of the engine so passengers can see the plate from the front carriage, touch it and take photographs.”

Mary Ann

Railway enthusiast Merv Volker (left) donates the nameplate from the original Mary Ann to Peter Olds on behalf of the Whistlestop museum in Maryborough, Qld.

Why donate it now?

When asked what prompted him to donate the plate now, Mr Volker said that, being 76 years of age, the time had come to downsize his collection of railway memorabilia.

“There comes a time when you have to clean up after yourself,” he laughed.

“I have a large collection, and if I was hit by a bus tomorrow, (my sister) Marilyn (Jensen) would have to clean it up.

“It’s a hell of a job. It’ll take me all year to dispose of it. We’ve been going a couple of months already, and there’s still so much other stuff.

“My collection includes a lot of Queensland Railway china. I’m not letting that go, but the rest can go.

“Marilyn knows that if something happens to me, she’s to give the china to the railway museum at Ipswich because there are pieces in there they haven’t got.

“Different people who are involved in collecting railway history have different prime subjects. Some people collect tickets only. Others collect things such as lamps and uniforms.”

Call for more relics and photos

Mr Olds said the Maryborough City Whistlestop committee was keen to accept more donations of other local railway relics and photos, including the second locomotive made by John Walker & Co. Ltd, Mary Ann’s sister ‘Dundathu’.

To contact the committee phone (07) 4121 0444 or email mborowhistlestop@bigpond.com

For more on Mary Ann’s history, visit https://maryboroughwhistlestop.org.au and https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cooloola_Tramway

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Top 5 ways to unwind with a reef tour

Update (20 July 2023): Annette Swaine is no longer with Port of Call. Boats are still available for hire, and other operators in the area also offer guided and self-guided options for exploring the region.

IF YOU’RE looking for a top spot to relax, far away from city crowds and office desks, the Hinchinbrook Channel near Cardwell is one of the best in Queensland.

Port of Call skipper Annette Swaine lives and breathes a boatie’s life, taking reef tours through the channel and helping people with their boating and fishing supplies.

“I’ve found my happy place,” she beamed.

I met Annette, affectionately known as ‘Swainie’, while recently visiting one of my sons, Steve, and his family in North Queensland, where they now live and work, in paradise.  And I thought I was lucky just to visit!

When Steve suggested taking a reef tour through the Hinchinbrook Channel with Swainie, he didn’t have to twist my arm. The tour is listed on TripAdvisor as one of the best in the region. I quickly agreed.

Swainie was a terrific host, sharing lots of information throughout the four-hour trip on board Osprey, Port of Call’s Sailfish Cat.

Below are the top 5 things I learned about the area that day.

1. Crab fossils wash ashore at Ramsay Bay

Reef tour - woman holding fossilised crabs

Taking us ashore at Ramsay Bay, Swainie showed us crab fossils that had washed onto the beach. The species was unknown. Could they be rare Fiddler Crabs?

The Discover Port Hinchinbrook website reads:

“Fossilised crabs, including a species of Fiddler Crab (6000 years old), are found in the creeks of the Island and on the shore of Ramsay Bay.

“There are only two other places (Southern California and the Panama Canal) in the world where fossilised Fiddler Crabs have been found.”

Alas, Dr Marissa McNamara, Queensland Museum Collection Manager Crustacea, said this fossil was not a Fiddler Crab.

“It is a crab, but unfortunately, the species cannot be determined from the photograph,” Dr McNamara said.

“This crab specimen is termed a subfossil. It is probably 5000 to 8000 years old, and as such, it represents one of the same species that we see living in the area today.

“Subfossils are often casts of crabs that have been in their burrows and gotten smothered with a heavy load of siltation from a flood.

“Generally, soft-muddy bottom inshore or mangrove species are found, like mud crabs or sentinel crabs.

“Fiddler Crabs are not typically represented.

“Often fossils like this are deposited during times when the sea level was somewhat higher, and that is why they can get washed out of river banks or mangroves during cyclones or any change to the path of creek channels.

“They often turn up around the mouth of the Brisbane River, and Magnetic is another hot spot, but they can be found in many places, including Hinchinbrook Island.”

2. Hinchinbrook Channel is a nature photographer’s paradise

reef tour - sea creature

Sea creatures can be found on the beach of Ramsay Bay.

Heavy fog blanketed Cardwell as we set off about 8 am, but soon we were beyond the fog and cruising across the tranquil waterway towards Hinchinbrook Island.

A few nautical miles out, eagle-eyed Swainie spotted a saltwater crocodile in an area they liked to frequent. She said crocs were regularly sighted there.

Saltwater crocodiles can be found from the tip of Cape York to as far south as Gladstone, and sometimes even further.

Queensland Department of Environment and Science records show crocodile sightings were reported at Burrum Heads and Toogoom as recently as April 2020.

Swainie said Hinchinbrook Channel was a major feeding ground for dugongs.

“Dolphins, green turtles and a wide variety of fish and crustaceans also live in the waterway,” she said.

Fishing wasn’t on our agenda, but I was able to photograph garfish as they skimmed across the water’s surface. It was a photo opportunity too good to miss.

The area also supports a rich diversity of birdlife, including Torresian Imperial Pigeons, Torres Strait Pigeons (Ducula spilorrhoa) or nutmeg pigeons.

While ashore at Ramsay Bay, we were on the lookout for the vulnerable beach thick-knees (Burhinus neglectus), but we weren’t that lucky.

On Hinchinbrook Island, the tropical habitat also provides refuge for many endangered species, including the giant tree frog.

3. You can get closer to nature on the Thorsborne Trail

reef tour - Hinchinbrook Channel

The Thorsborne Trail winds its way along the eastern edge of Hinchinbrook Island.

A few days earlier, Swainie had dropped off some backpackers at Ramsay Bay as they set off to hike the Thorsborne Trail (commonly known as the East Coast Trail).

The Discover Port Hinchinbrook website lists the Thorsborne Trail as one of the world’s best backpacking adventures.

“This 32km trail winds its way along the eastern edge of the magnificent island in the shadow of the rugged Mt Bowen,” it reads.

“It snakes its way through a tropical wilderness, along spectacular ocean beaches and crosses numerous crystal clear mountain streams.

“Campsites are on beautiful beaches, beside freshwater streams or near magnificent mountain stream waterfalls.”

As part of our reef tour, Swainie picked up the backpackers from George Point on the island’s southern end and ferried them back to Cardwell, all with cameras holding hundreds of photos of their adventure.

4. Charter a boat and go fishing   

reef tour - Port of Call

Fishing is a popular pastime at Cardwell and Hinchinbrook Island in North Queensland.

 Throwing a line in the water might have provided us with a dinner of fish that night, except this was an impromptu trip.

With some forward planning, things might have been different.

Swainie said North Queensland was internationally renowned as one of Australia’s tourism destinations.

“The Hinchinbrook Channel, with its tranquil waters, is an angler’s paradise,” she said.

“On the reef, you can fish for coral trout, mackerel, giant trevally or nannygai. Barramundi and mangrove jack can be found in the estuaries and rivers.”

 

5. Research history

Rugged mountains on Hinchinbrook Island

A warplane that crashed in the rugged mountains of Hinchinbrook Island in 1941 remains scattered at the site.

 If you’re into researching history, there’s no shortage of topics with which to while away the hours in the Hinchinbrook Island and Cardwell areas.

After picking up the backpackers from George Point, we headed back to Cardwell. On the way, Swainie pointed to where the wreckage of a World War II plane still lies.

A Queensland Government website that’s dedicated to World War II history reports (in part) that on 18 December 1941, a USAAF Liberator bomber known as ‘Texas Terror’ lifted off from Garbutt airbase, Townsville, for Iron Range on the Cape York Peninsula but soon disappeared.

Searches were made, but no trace of the plane was found until two Aborigines searching the gullies on Hinchinbrook Island for alluvial tin reported finding some burned US currency in the creeks at the base of Mount Straloch.

In early 1944, searchers found the wreckage on the southern flank of Mount Straloch. The aircraft had struck the face of the mountain some 150 to 180 metres below the summit, killing all 12 people on board.

The wreckage remains scattered over the area.

For more information on the wreckage, visit https://wanderstories.space/mt-straloch/ 

A return trip is on our bucket list

Our impromptu reef tour with Port of Call skipper Swainie gave us a preview of what we could see and do in and around the Hinchinbrook Channel. A return trip is definitely on our bucket list.

Port of Call Boating and Fishing is located at Port Hinchinbrook, Cardwell. For more information, visit https://portofcallshop.com.au/about-us/%20

Details on Hinchinbrook Island can be found at www.porthinchinbrook.com.au and https://parks.des.qld.gov.au/parks/hinchinbrook

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Why hold world-class white water rafting championships at Tully?

Watching all the adrenalin pumping action on the first day of the 2018 Pre-World White Water Rafting Championship on 11 May was certainly a highlight of my five-week house-sitting stint in Tully.

BEFORE visiting Tully, I knew the town of 2,390 people, located 140 kilometres south of Cairns in North Queensland, was reputed to be the wettest town in Australia.

It has an average annual rainfall of more than 4000 millimetres. The highest ever annual rainfall in a populated area of Australia, 7900 millimetres, was recorded in Tully in 1950.

The Golden Gumboot monument stands as a testament to these records.

At 7.9 metres tall, the boot represents the town’s record 1950 rainfall. An inside spiral staircase takes you to the top for a view of the town. Tully also holds an annual Golden Gumboot Festival.

Australia’s best white water rafting river?

What I didn’t know was that the nearby Tully River is arguably the best rafting river in Australia.

It’s no wonder Tully was chosen to host this year’s national rafting championship in May, which was a build-up event to the International Rafting Federation’s (IRF) 2019 World Rafting Championship (WRC).

On 11 May, I was lucky enough to find a terrific spectator viewing spot to watch the first day of action when some of the world’s best rafters competed in the sprint and head-to-head disciplines.

In just a few hours, I learnt a lot about the sport and watched in awe as rafters navigated the Tully River’s rapids, fringed by a world heritage tropical rainforest.

However, you don’t have to be the best in the world to experience the thrill of white water rafting on the Tully River throughout the year.

Thrill-seekers of all levels, even beginners, can book half or full-day tours through www.wildsideadventures.com.au or www.ragingthunder.com.au.

Below are some photos from the first day of the 2018 Pre-World White Water Rafting Championship at Tully.

white water rafting

 

 

Discover Cooktown in Far North Queensland

THERE’S no shortage of things to do at Cooktown, where in 1770 James Cook landed after his ship ran aground on the Great Barrier Reef.

The old adage “Seen one rainforest, seen ém all” certainly doesn’t apply.

Exploring Queensland’s Cape York Peninsula was just a blip on my travel radar until last December.

I’d already seen plenty of rainforests, so with many other exciting places beckoning, I figured if an opportunity arose to go to North Queensland, I’d go, but otherwise I wouldn’t make the effort.

An opportunity did arise after relatives moved to Cooktown in late 2014.

An airline company was offering cheap flights from Brisbane to Cairns, so that blip on my travel radar suddenly started beaming “visit me”.

I planned to make the trip before the 2016 wet season (January to March), but I’ve since learned the monsoon rains in summer renew wildlife spectacularly.

Waterfalls are also in full flow, so awesome photographic opportunities would have been greater than the month I chose, September 2015.

While Cooktown is accessible in a standard vehicle all year round, time was limited for my north Queensland jaunt, so I took a 45-minute flight from Cairns with Hinterland Aviation.

Cooktown is steeped in history dating from ancient Indigenous times, Captain James Cook’s landing on the bank of the Endeavour River in 1770, and the Palmer River Gold Rush of the late 1800s.

The town is located 28 kilometres north of Cairns.

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Top 11 things to do at Cooktown in pictures

Things to do at Cooktown - trees

1. Visit the botanic gardens.

Things to do at Cooktown - crocodile

2. Go crocodile spotting. The best time is during the dry season (July to December) on a low tide when they come out of the water to sun themselves on the river banks. Beware of venturing near the water on beaches and riverbanks where crocs view humans as prey.

Things to do in Cooktown - man at a waterfall

3. Visit the Trevathan Falls just south of Cooktown off the Mulligan Highway.

 

Things to do in Cooktown - river scene

4. Enjoy spectacular views of Cooktown, the Endeavour River and the Great Barrier Reef from the Grassy Hill Lookout and Lighthouse.

 

Things to do in Cooktown - Cherry Tree Bay

5. Hike from the Grassy Hill Road to Cherry Tree Bay, Cooktown’s most secluded beach fringed by rainforest and large rock formations.

Things to do at Cooktown - visit Black Mountain

6. Visit the mysterious Black Mountains 25km south of Cooktown on the Mulligan Highway. The mountains of grey granite boulders are culturally significant for the Kuku Yalanji people, and tales abound of people, horses and cattle disappearing, never to be seen again.

 

Things to do at Cooktown - visit the Lions Den Hotel

7. Have a beer in the Lion’s Den Hotel, built in 1875 on the banks of the Little Annan River. Surrounded by mango trees and rainforests, the historic hotel, built of timber and iron, is famous for its quirky interior.

 

 

Things to do at Cooktown - river scene

8. Take a sunset cruise along the Endeavour River.

Things to do at Cooktown - museum

9. Visit the James Cook Museum, located in the restored Sisters of Mercy convent school building, where artefacts from Captain James Cook’s ship Endeavour and diary extracts are housed. The museum also holds Indigenous Australian and Chinese displays.

Things to do at Cooktown - art gallery

10. See Indigenous Australian art, pottery and jewellery at the Wujal Wujal professional gallery near the Bloomfield River.

Things to do at Cooktown - fountain

11. Take a walking tour of the town to see the water fountain, Elizabeth Guzsely Gallery, history centres, Milbi (story) Wall, a statue of Mick the Miner and the interactive Musical Ship. James Cook’s tributes include a statue, a cannon and a monument marking the spot where Cook beached his Endeavour in 1770. Markets are on Saturday mornings near the bowls club.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Discovering New Norcia

IF TOURIST brochures suggest staying at Margaret River you can bet hubby will want to book at Yallingup, a stone’s throw up the road.

Doing the tourist thing or mingling with crowds is not his idea of a relaxing holiday so when we visited the southwest corner of Western Australia recently, he went to great lengths to find out-of-the-way places to stay.

There was one he missed, however. New Norcia. When I discovered the ultimate retreat  – a Spanish monastery – was just a mere 132km northeast of Perth, he couldn’t argue that it was the perfect place to stay, peaceful and charming with a fascinating history and unique architecture.

Just because Australia was leading in the fourth day’s play of the second Test with Sri Lanka and the monastery guesthouse was void of radio and television, it wasn’t reasoned enough (for me) to pass up the opportunity to spend our last night of holidays experiencing the lifestyle of Benedictine monks.

Besides, hubby could always slip outside to hear the latest scores on our hired car’s radio or hike up the hill to the New Norcia Hotel – a former palace built in 1927 for Queen Isabella of Spain, who never made the intended trip because it was too far.

Dom Christopher Power, head of Friends of New Norcia, said the tiny town was established in 1846 by Spanish monks who came to work with the Aboriginal people.

“With its large extravagant buildings, olive trees and church bells, the town is like a piece of old Spain in the middle of the Australian bush,” he said.

“In addition to 65 buildings, the town also houses a large art and artefact collection, a library of 75,000 books and a comprehensive archive dating back to the monastery’s foundation.

“The current community of 11 monks live a simple, prayerful life following the Rule of St Benedict and makes hospitality their special care.”

After booking by phone, checking into the guesthouse was refreshingly easy. No swipe of our credit card, no request for photo identification or car registration details, just a warm welcome from a charming gentleman who showed us where to tick off our name in the register book and took us to our room.

According to hearsay, the rooms were supposed to be “sparse” but we found our twin-share room with ensuite (no doubles available) to be just as comfortable as any average motel room (minus television and radio) and akin to a bed and breakfast with a shared kitchen, dining room, lounge and reading room.

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Security, what security?

As for security, our host simply said: “This is a monastery and we’re in the country”.

Guests of all faiths were welcome and the $75 per person “donation” for the night included three home-style meals, including an impressive banquet lunch the next day which unfortunately we had to pass up as our plans meant being back in Perth by 2 pm.

While under instructions not to speak to unless spoken to, the monks wandered freely through the dining room and kitchen as we soaked up the home-style atmosphere, clearing our tables and washing the dishes after dinner.

Among the 12 guests were a “contemporary Spanish artist” who was looking for inspiration and a university lecturer from Perth who was on her fifth stay.

Every second month the lecturer leaves her family behind to escape the “rat race” and indulge in the peace and tranquillity of New Norcia. On previous visits, she used the time to write her PhD. Without mobile phone coverage in the area, she could not be contacted except in emergencies.

Guests were invited to meet a monk at 10.30 am, but again, our schedule didn’t allow it.

Spiritual experience at New Norcia

For spiritual experience, guests were also welcome to join the monks for the daily celebration of Mass in the Abbey Church and prayers in the Monastery Chapel.

Only men can eat with the monk,s but they shouldn’t expect any conversation, other than prayer reading. Hubby passed on that opportunity.

Checking out of the guesthouse was easier than our arrival. After making our beds with freshly supplied linen, we picked up an envelope from the reception desk to seal our cash donation and place it in a box.

Dom Power said the Friends of New Norcia received no regular funding from the Catholic Church or state and federal governments, but with the help of guesthouse donations, in 2003, the 19th-century reading room was restored and furnished for monastery guests.

In 2004, the town’s education centre was refurbished, and the following year, the roofs and ceilings of the old St Ildephonsus classroom were replaced to provide space for the expanding library.

Last year, donations contributed to the Aboriginal Mission Cottages Project, which includes the restoration of the last remaining mission cottage on the site.

Our stay at the monastery in Australia’s only monastic town was a wonderfully unique experience … and the other half didn’t feel too disadvantaged by reading books instead of watching cricket on TV. Australia was as good as home and dry anyway.

New Norcia - church

New Norcia - historic building

New Norcia - graveyard

New Norcia - church roof and cross

 

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