Tag Archive for: North Queensland

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Magnetic Island Day Trip from Townsville

A Day on Magnetic Island: Rock Wallabies, Beaches and Island Time

SOMETIMES the best way to explore somewhere new is not to arrive with a long list of things to tick off, but simply to see where the day takes you.

That was our approach to Magnetic Island while I was staying with family in Townsville. We took a car across on the vehicle ferry and spent the day exploring some of the island’s best-known bays. Along the way, we stopped for lunch and met the little rock-wallabies living among the granite boulders at Geoffrey Bay.

Magnetic Island — or Yunbenun, its traditional name — lies only about eight kilometres north-east of Townsville. Yet once you’ve crossed Cleveland Bay, it feels considerably further removed from the city.

The Wulgurukaba people, known as the ‘canoe people’, are the Traditional Custodians of Yunbenun. Their enduring connection extends across the island and nearby mainland. Today, 78 per cent of Magnetic Island’s 5184 hectares is protected as national or conservation park, within the Great Barrier Reef World Heritage Area.

Its landscape is striking, with open eucalypt woodland, sandy beaches and hoop pines. Enormous weathered granite boulders seem to have been casually scattered around the coastline.

Affiliate Disclosure: This article is based on my own day trip to Magnetic Island. It contains affiliate links to selected travel partners. If you book through one of these links, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps support Jocelyn Magazine and the independent travel stories I share here.

Magnetic Island vehicle ferry at the Townsville terminal in North Queensland.

Taking a car across from Townsville makes exploring Magnetic Island easy on a day trip.

Getting to Magnetic Island from Townsville

There are two straightforward ways to make the crossing.

We chose to take a car on the vehicle ferry, which worked particularly well for a family day out with a three-year-old. Once ashore, we could set our own pace and move easily between the bays.

Alternatively, passenger ferries make the crossing from Townsville in about 20 minutes. Public buses connect with ferry arrivals on the island. Hire cars are also available for visitors who would rather travel across as foot passengers and pick up wheels when they arrive.

While Magnetic Island is an easy day trip, there’s certainly no requirement to leave at sunset. Accommodation ranges from resorts and holiday apartments to backpacker-style and other short-stay options. So, an overnight stay, or several nights, is an easy alternative.

Swimmers on the sandy beach at Alma Bay with granite rocks framing the water.

Granite headlands and calm blue water make Alma Bay one of Magnetic Island’s inviting beach stops.

First stop: Alma Bay

Our first stop was Alma Bay, near Arcadia. It was a lovely introduction to the landscape we would see throughout the day. Calm blue water met a sandy beach, with great, rounded granite formations rising around the shoreline.

Magnetic Island is actually a continental island. It was once connected to the mainland before rising sea levels separated it about 7500 years ago. That helps explain why the island shares much of its wildlife with the nearby North Queensland mainland, including the creatures we were about to meet.

Large weathered granite boulders beside Geoffrey Bay on Magnetic Island.

Massive granite boulders are a defining feature of Magnetic Island’s landscape and ideal habitat for its rock-wallabies.

Meeting the rock-wallabies at Geoffrey Bay

Allied rock-wallaby with a joey among granite rocks at Geoffrey Bay.

An allied rock-wallaby and joey among the granite boulders at Geoffrey Bay.

From Alma Bay we continued to Geoffrey Bay at Arcadia. Here, the granite boulders provide habitat for one of Magnetic Island’s most engaging residents: the allied rock-wallaby.

This was easily the highlight of my day. Or, more accurately, watching my three-year-old grandson discover them was.

Allied rock-wallaby taking food pellets from a visitor's hand at Geoffrey Bay.

A rock-wallaby accepts approved food pellets from a visitor at Geoffrey Bay.

There is something rather magical about seeing a small child encounter a wild animal at close range. One moment you’re looking at a jumble of enormous grey-brown rocks; the next, a pair of ears appears. Then a little face. And suddenly there is a wallaby standing almost impossibly securely on a sloping slab of granite.

Allied rock-wallabies (Petrogale assimilis) occur naturally across parts of north-eastern Queensland, including Magnetic and Palm islands. Magnetic Island itself was once part of the mainland. Its wallabies weren’t introduced as a tourist attraction; they are part of the island’s native fauna.

They’re beautifully adapted to this rugged environment. Their colouring makes them surprisingly difficult to pick out against the rocks, while their feet allow them to move quickly and confidently across steep, uneven surfaces.

Queensland Parks recommends looking for them around places such as Geoffrey Bay in the early morning or late afternoon.

The Geoffrey Bay wallabies have also become accustomed to human visitors. We hand-fed them wallaby pellets, which was especially exciting for the smallest member of our party.

Current local wildlife guidance would prefer visitors to let the wallabies forage naturally. For those who do feed them, only appropriate foods should be offered. These include wallaby pellets and certain fruits and vegetables; never processed human food.

Watching the wallabies emerge from their rocky hideaways was fascinating. Watching a three-year-old’s face as they did so was even better.

Family sitting on a bench overlooking Geoffrey Bay towards Townsville.

Taking time out at Geoffrey Bay during a family day trip around Magnetic Island.

 

Hiring a car in Townsville?

If you’re flying into Townsville, hiring a car can make it easy to explore the city before taking your vehicle across to Magnetic Island. Avis permits eligible rentals from Townsville to travel to Magnetic Island, subject to its island travel conditions. Check the current terms when booking.

Visit Avis Car Rentals

Lunch in Arcadia, then on to Horseshoe Bay

Pizza, fried chicken and salad served for lunch at Bikini Tree Café on Magnetic Island.

Lunch at Bikini Tree Café in Arcadia Village Hotel during our Magnetic Island day trip.

After our wildlife encounter, we stopped for a casual lunch at Bikini Tree Café at Arcadia Village Hotel before continuing across the island to Horseshoe Bay.

Horseshoe Bay has a different feel again. It’s the island’s largest bay and one of its main visitor hubs. Cafés and water activities line the bay, while boats sit offshore. It would be easy to spend a good part of the day here. You could swim, eat or simply find some shade and look across the water.

For visitors with more time than we had, Magnetic Island offers plenty of other reasons to linger. There are walking tracks, snorkelling, fishing and opportunities to see more wildlife.

The best known is the Forts Walk, with its sweeping views and Second World War history. There’s also the chance of seeing wild koalas. The remains are part of a coastal defence complex built in 1942–43 when Townsville was an important military base and Cleveland Bay a strategically significant shipping area.

That’s one for another visit.

Outrigger canoes beside the beach add to the laid-back tropical atmosphere at Horseshoe Bay.

Finishing the day at Picnic Bay

Weathered timber and marine growth on a pylon of the Picnic Bay jetty.

Years of tides and marine life have left their mark on the old Picnic Bay jetty.

Our final stop was Picnic Bay, at the southern end of the island.

By then the day had taken on that pleasantly unhurried feeling that comes when you’ve stopped trying to fit anything else in.

Picnic Bay has its own place in Magnetic Island’s tourism history. The island became popular with visitors from Townsville during the 1800s. Its first resort was established at Picnic Bay in the late 1890s.

We walked along the old timber jetty, looking back towards the mainland across Cleveland Bay. It was a fitting place to finish a day that had begun only a short ferry ride away.

There’s another little piece of history behind the island’s English name. When Lieutenant James Cook sailed through the area in 1770, he recorded that his compass did not behave properly. He named the island for the magnetic effect he thought the land was having on it.

More than 250 years later, Magnetic Island still has a certain pulling power, although perhaps not quite the sort Cook had in mind.

For me, though, the lasting memory isn’t the compass story, the beaches or even those extraordinary granite boulders.

It’s a three-year-old discovering that if you look carefully between the rocks at Geoffrey Bay, something might be looking back.

Family walking along the timber jetty at Picnic Bay on Magnetic Island.

Walking the Picnic Bay jetty during a family day trip to Magnetic Island.

 

Make Townsville your base

Staying in Townsville and planning a Magnetic Island day trip? Oaks has two centrally located properties, putting you within easy reach of the waterfront and ferry connections.

Explore Oaks Townsville stays

Photos: © Jocelyn Watts 4/6/2026

 

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Best Things to do Near Mission Beach

Mission Beach as a base: Easy day trips & local highlights

MISSION Beach sits on Queensland’s Cassowary Coast, a seaside community of just over a thousand people. Rainforest, reef and wide, uncrowded beaches frame the town.

It’s also a place layered with history. Long before European settlement, the area was, and remains, Country for the Djiru people. Evidence of their long occupation includes middens, fish traps, rock shelters and ceremonial sites around Mission Beach and nearby Dunk Island.

The first European landholders, the Cutten brothers, took up their selections here in 1886. Today, this peaceful stretch of North Queensland coastline holds another distinction. Mission Beach is the closest point on the Australian mainland to the Great Barrier Reef.

I came to know the region several years ago while my eldest son and his wife were working in Tully, around 30 kilometres inland. Travelling north from Maryborough on the Spirit of Queensland became part of the adventure. It was an unhurried overnight journey. I’d wake to sunrise as the train passed west of Mackay, before reaching a conveniently timed stop at Tully.

During one memorable stay, I pet-sat their dog and Albino Darwin Carpet Python while they holidayed overseas. That gave me the freedom to explore widely by day and return to a familiar base each night.

While Tully is a lovely place to stay, neighbouring Mission Beach is generally better geared for visitors. What follows in Best Things to Do Near Mission Beach are some of the highlights from those years of return visits. For me, the region is at its best during the cooler, calmer months between May and August.

 

This article contains affiliate links, which may earn Jocelyn Magazine a small commission at no additional cost to you.

Best Things to do in Mission Beach - South Mission Beach

Low tide at South Mission Beach reveals rippled sand, shallow channels and long stretches of shoreline, perfect for walking, thinking, and watching the light shift.

Best Things to do Near Mission Beach - Southern Cassowary

Southern Cassowary. Photo by Matt Cornish, Canva Pro.

Sunrise walks, wide beaches and cassowary country

One of the greatest pleasures of Mission Beach is watching the sun rise over the Coral Sea. Just a short stroll from the centre of town, the long sweep of pale sand becomes a peaceful theatre at dawn. Soft pinks and golds spread across the water, while palm fronds silhouette against the light.

It’s an easy win for early risers and anyone who enjoys capturing colour before the day properly begins.

Dawn and dusk are also prime times to spot the endangered southern cassowary. South Mission Beach is known for regular sightings of these magnificent birds.

Cassowaries are wild and powerful, so a few basic precautions matter. Never feed them and keep at least 20–30 metres away. If one approaches, don’t run. Stand your ground and slowly back away, placing a tree or car between you and the bird.

Five kilometres north, Bingil Bay makes an easy detour. Stop for breakfast at Bingil Bay Cafe before the day unfolds.

 

Tea, cocoa, and coffee stop in tropical North Queensland

I come from a long line of tea drinkers. You might assume that’s an outback habit — I grew up in Barcaldine, after all — but our family’s tea loyalty actually leads north.

My great-uncle Harold had business interests with Nerada Tea near Innisfail. Family legend had it that he was worth more than a quid or two. To stay in his good graces, it was considered wise to keep Nerada Tea well stocked in case of an impromptu visit. After all, he might think of us when writing his will.

He never did. Barcaldine was a long way from Innisfail.

Years later, being within easy reach of the region felt like an invitation. Visiting Nerada Tea was a way of reconnecting with that thread of family history.

It also led to another discovery. This part of North Queensland is perfectly suited to growing cocoa and coffee, too. Between tea plantations, chocolate makers and coffee stops, I happily did the rounds, and thanked Great-Uncle Harold for the nudge.

 

Best Things to do Near Mission Beach - tea, cocoa and coffee plantations.

Before chocolate bars, brewed cups and café stops, there’s the farm. Tea bushes growing thick and glossy, cocoa pods cracked open to reveal their pale fruit, and coffee cherries ripening patiently on the branch.

Tully: Sugar cane, record rainfall and white-water adrenaline

Sugar cane is the backbone of Tully, and you don’t need a history book to be reminded. During the milling season, plumes of smoke rise from the mill’s smokestack. It’s a familiar sight that signals harvest time and steady work.

Cane growing has shaped the town for more than a century. For visitors less familiar with the industry, guided tours of the sugar mill offer a practical introduction. They also reveal just how central the industry remains to life here.

I skipped the tour, having lived in Maryborough (Qld) and covered sugar seasons regularly as a journalist. But it’s well worth considering if the process is new to you.

On one visit, Tully delivered a different kind of spectacle. The opening day of the 2018 Pre-World White Water Rafting Championships coincided with my five-week house-sitting stay.

The action in Tully Gorge was unforgettable. I slipped back into sports-photographer mode and captured the adrenaline as teams tackled the rapids. Rafting remains a major drawcard here, with local operators offering trips for adventurous first-timers.

All of this unfolds in Australia’s wettest populated place. Tully marks that claim proudly with the towering Golden Gumboot in Banyan Park.

Best Things to do Near Mission Beach - Sugar cane, record rainfall and white-water adrenaline.

Tully is shaped by water and work, from its sugar mill and famous Golden Gumboot to the wild waters of Tully Gorge, pictured here during the 2018 Pre-World White Water Rafting Championships.

EXPLORE MORE OF TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND

Mission Beach makes a great base, but some of the region’s best experiences lie beyond town. Having your own wheels gives you the freedom to chase waterfalls, explore rainforest drives and turn an interesting roadside sign into an impromptu detour.

Planning to hire a car? Check Avis Car Rentals for options and hit the road at your own pace.

Start early for the Hinchinbrook Channel

The pace slowed noticeably once we reached Cardwell and headed out towards the Hinchinbrook Channel. One of my son’s former workmates hosted us for the day.

We left early, pushing through a thick layer of morning fog that dulled sound and blurred the edges of land and water. The air was cool and still. Only the low hum of the motor and the soft slap of water against the hull broke the silence.

As the fog lifted, the channel revealed itself in layers. Mangroves edged the shoreline, calm water stretched ahead and the looming bulk of Hinchinbrook Island rose in the distance.

We cruised north toward Ramsay Bay, where we went ashore and wandered along the broad, empty beach. The scale of the place was immediately apparent. It felt powerful, yet restful.

Our host, known locally as Swainie, has since moved from Cardwell. However, other operators offer similar tours into the channel and surrounding waters.

For more details on the route and what we saw along the way, I’ve shared a separate account of that day on Jocelyn Magazine.

Best Things to do Near Mission Beach - Start early for the Hinchinbrook Channel.

From Cardwell, a boat ride through the Hinchinbrook Channel reveals mangroves, mountains and quiet shores. At Ramsay Bay, even a starfish washed in by the tide catches the eye.

Printing presses, spy cameras and Art Deco streetscapes

At Historic Village Herberton, history isn’t static. It’s demonstrated. More than 60 original buildings house shops, a working tearoom, antique vehicles, small engines, fashion displays and rows of John Deere tractors.

My attention, however, was drawn to a volunteer in period dress operating a vintage printing press. Nearby sat a newspaper-folding machine. Both were relics of a publishing world well before my own time in media.

After more than two decades working in journalism, I found it fascinating to see how newspapers were produced in an earlier era.

Elsewhere in town, the Herberton Spy and Camera Museum offers a very different collection. Rare police spy cameras sit alongside Cold War-era surveillance equipment and historic military gear. It’s an unexpectedly absorbing stop, particularly for anyone curious about photography and hidden histories.

Back on the coast, Innisfail reveals another layer of heritage through its remarkable art deco streetscape. Many of the town’s buildings date from the rebuilding that followed the devastating 1918 cyclone.

Known for one of Australia’s finest collections of art deco buildings, Innisfail is easy to explore on a self-guided walk. The streetscape is elegant, confident and faintly reminiscent of a Great Gatsby set.

Best Things to do Near Mission Beach - Printing presses, spy cameras and Art Deco streetscapes.

In Herberton Historic Village, history isn’t behind glass; it’s demonstrated, explained and brought to life, whether that’s an antique printing press still standing ready for use, or the stories that come with it. Nearby, the Spy Camera Museum adds a layer of intrigue. Back on the coast, Innisfail Courthouse anchors the town’s famous art deco streetscape.

Paronella Park: A tropical dream frozen in time

Time travel has always fascinated me. Standing among the moss-softened stonework of Paronella Park, it’s easy to imagine it happening.

Close your eyes, and the sound of water over Mena Creek seems to change. Laughter drifts across terraces and footsteps echo on stairways. The outlines of a once-grand tropical castle sharpen into focus. For a moment, you’re no longer a visitor. You’re a guest.

Spanish immigrant José Paronella designed and built the park between 1929 and 1935. He envisioned an entertainment precinct inspired by European architecture.

Set among rainforest and waterfalls, it featured swimming areas, tennis courts, picnic grounds and places to stroll. It was ambitious, romantic and entirely personal. After decades of decline, Paronella Park has been carefully revived and is now both heritage-listed and eco-certified.

That sense of past and present has drawn filmmakers, too. The ruins featured in the 1993 film Sniper. Much of the 2018 feature Celeste, starring Radha Mitchell, was also shot among its public spaces.

It’s no stretch to see why. Paronella Park doesn’t just tell a story; it holds one.

Best Things to do Near Mission Beach - Paronella Park: a tropical dream frozen in time.

Romance and mystery. Hidden within the rainforest, Paronella Park feels like a place where time slips sideways. Water tumbles over the falls, moss softens stone balustrades, and fountains spill gently into lily-filled ponds.

Creative corners and small-town surprises beyond the beach

Best thing to do near Mission Beach - collage of photos

The arty vibe around Mission Beach stretches from Cardwell to the Atherton Tableland, with character-filled cafés, galleries and creative experiences along the way. It even nudged me into my first pottery class, making smoking dragons, no less. Sometimes travel brings out your inner potter.

Best things to do near Mission Beach: How to make it all doable

One of Mission Beach’s strengths is how easy it is to reach and explore. From Brisbane, flying into Cairns is the quickest option. From there, it’s a scenic two-hour drive south along the coast.

Driving the full distance takes considerably longer, but the journey has its own rewards. It’s particularly appealing if you enjoy breaking a road trip into regional stopovers.

For me, the most memorable way to travel north has been by rail. The Spirit of Queensland offers a relaxed overnight journey from Brisbane. Sleeper-style comfort and wide windows invite you to sit back and watch the landscape change.

Waking to sunrise in North Queensland sets the tone beautifully. With stops at towns such as Tully, rail is also a practical option with a touch of nostalgia.

Once based in Mission Beach, day trips become a matter of preference rather than pressure. Tully is around 30 kilometres inland, while Cardwell and the Hinchinbrook Channel are roughly an hour south. Innisfail sits about 55 kilometres north, and Paronella Park is an easy drive inland.

None of these outings needs to be rushed or combined. They’re best enjoyed as individual days, with enough time to return to the coast by evening.

Having come to know the area over years rather than days, Mission Beach feels less like a destination and more like a familiar pause between journeys.

BEFORE YOU GO

PACK SMARTER WITH BAGSMART
Keep the suitcase under control with practical organisers and travel accessories from Bagsmart — particularly handy when you’re moving between several stops on a Queensland road trip.

Explore Bagsmart travel gear

 

DON’T FORGET TRAVEL INSURANCE
Even a relaxed Australian getaway can bring the unexpected. Check your travel insurance options before you leave, particularly if your trip includes flights, car hire or prepaid accommodation and activities.

Explore travel insurance options 

 

A LITTLE AUSTRALIAN GOODNESS
Kakadu Plum Co. celebrates Australian native ingredients and flavours, with products that make a lovely addition to the travel pantry — or a distinctly Australian treat to enjoy when you get home.

Explore Kakadu Plum Co.

This article contains affiliate links, which may earn Jocelyn Magazine a small commission at no additional cost to you.

About the author

Jocelyn Watts is a Queensland writer, photographer and editor of Jocelyn Magazine, with a background in journalism and a passion for regional travel and everyday stories. Based in Hervey Bay, she has spent years exploring Mission Beach and North Queensland, experiences that continue to shape her writing and photography.

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Chocolate History Explained: Is It Really Fruit?

Is Chocolate Really a Fruit? A Short History from Cocoa Tree to Chocolate Bar

FOR ANYONE curious about chocolate history, there’s a comforting idea worth entertaining: the love of your life may be a fruit.

That’s the light-hearted theory put forward by Chris Jahnke during a guided tour of a small chocolate plantation in North Queensland.

“Chocolate is made from the seeds of the cocoa fruit,” Chris joked. “So in my mind, that makes chocolate a fruit.”

There was laughter all round — the kind that suggests people are more than happy to believe it might be true.

And while the idea is playful rather than scientific, it does have a kernel of truth. Chocolate is made from cocoa beans, which come from the fermented, dried and ground seeds of the Theobroma cacao fruit.

What complicates chocolate’s reputation, of course, is not its origin — but what happens next. The addition of fat and sugar is what turns cocoa into the indulgence we know today, and what keeps chocolate hovering between treat, comfort food and cultural obsession.

Chocolate history - coca fruit explained

Cocoa fruit exposed. Photo: Everjean from Antwerp, Belgium, Creative Commons.

Chocolate Starts as a Fruit: Cocoa, Seeds and a Popular Myth

Cocoa pods grow directly from the trunk of the cocoa tree, each one encasing rows of seeds surrounded by a sweet, sticky pulp. Those seeds are what eventually become cocoa beans — the raw material for chocolate.

Nutritionally, cocoa itself contains antioxidants and compounds that have been widely studied. It’s the processing and additions that determine whether chocolate leans closer to nourishment or indulgence.

This distinction — between cocoa and chocolate — is one of the themes that runs through the history of chocolate, and one that becomes especially clear when you see how it’s made from scratch.

From Cocoa Tree to Chocolate Bar: Inside Charley’s Chocolate Factory

I learned just how much goes into that transformation during a Cocoa Tree to Chocolate Bar tour at Charley’s Chocolate Factory, near Mission Beach in North Queensland.

Owners Chris and Lynn Jahnke are deeply immersed in the world of cocoa. After years of moving between Melbourne and Queensland, they eventually settled on a rural property at Mount Edna, not far from the coast.

The land had previously been used for bananas, then cattle, before the couple began exploring alternative crops better suited to the climate — macadamias, mangoes, lychees — all with long lead times.

Then came a moment of inspiration.

Chris recalls watching an episode of ABC Landline about cocoa and realising that, while globally beloved, chocolate is grown in surprisingly few places.

“Chocolate is moderately popular,” he quipped. “The rest, as they say, is history.”

Today, cocoa trees grow on their property, and chocolate is produced onsite — from nursery to plantation to factory — resulting in small-batch chocolate that has gained national and international recognition.

Did Chocolate Ever Count as Health Food?

Chocolate’s reputation has long swung between virtue and vice.

Research has suggested that dark chocolate, when eaten in moderation, may be associated with benefits such as improved cholesterol profiles and cardiovascular health. These findings tend to relate to cocoa content rather than sugar-laden confectionery, and they sit firmly in the “interesting, not prescriptive” category.

What history makes clear is that cocoa’s earliest use had little to do with dessert.

For thousands of years, it was consumed as a drink — bitter, frothy and valued as much for ritual as for sustenance.

Chocolate History: How the Olmecs First Made Cocoa Drinkable

Traces of cocoa have been found in drinking vessels carbon-dated to around 3,800 years ago.

The earliest civilisation associated with cocoa consumption is the Olmecs of southern Mexico. It’s believed they observed animals cracking open cocoa pods, discarding the seeds and consuming only the sweet pulp.

Humans, however, went a step further.

The Olmecs fermented the seeds, dried them in the sun, roasted them over fire and ground the nibs into a paste — creating a drink that was both nourishing and culturally significant.

How they arrived at this process without modern food science remains one of the enduring marvels of food history.

For much of its life, cocoa remained a beverage. It wasn’t until 1847 that English chocolate maker Joseph Fry created the first solid chocolate bar, setting the stage for chocolate as we know it today.

Where Cocoa Grows — and Why North Queensland Works

Cocoa is a tropical tree with specific demands.

It thrives in hot, humid environments with consistent rainfall and grows most successfully within 15 degrees north and south of the Equator. Globally, the majority of cocoa production occurs in West African countries such as Ghana and Nigeria.

In Australia, suitable growing conditions are limited, but parts of coastal North Queensland, particularly between Tully and Mossman, offer the right combination of climate and soil.

Mission Beach sits squarely within that zone, making it one of the few places in the country where cocoa can be grown and processed locally.

Where Is Charley’s Chocolate Factory?

Charley’s Chocolate Factory is located at Mission Beach in North Queensland, between Tully and Mossman.

Here, cocoa plants are grown from seed, and chocolate is made onsite in small batches. Among its accolades, the business has been recognised under the International Cocoa Awards’ Cocoa of Excellence program.

For visitors interested in learning more about cocoa cultivation and chocolate making, further details are available via the Charley’s Chocolate Factory website.

Chocolate History: Charley's Chocolate Factory, Mission Beach.

From bean to bar, Charley’s Chocolate Factory is a reminder that some of the best food stories are grown, made and shared close to home. Cocoa pods on the tree, delicate blossoms, hands-on explanations, and rows of tropical plants thriving in North Queensland conditions — it’s chocolate with a strong sense of place. Visiting here isn’t just about tasting chocolate (though that’s reason enough); it’s about seeing how curiosity, climate and craft come together to create something special in Mission Beach.

About the author

Jocelyn Watts is a writer, editor and photographer based in Hervey Bay, Queensland. She writes about food, place and everyday culture, with a particular interest in how history, landscape and lived experience shape what — and how — we eat. Jocelyn is the editor of Jocelyn Magazine.

 

 

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Epic rail journey to a tropical paradise

Discover North Queensland on a railway adventure

AH, THE peace and tranquillity that comes with travelling by train.

Kicking back in my high-back leather-look seat, letting time pass me by as the scenery rushes past outside – it was an experience I hadn’t had for several years until I embarked on a long-haul journey from Maryborough to North Queensland in July 2023.

Instead of dealing with the usual stress of airports and traffic, this year my annual trip north took me on a slow yet mesmerizing voyage of discovery from Maryborough to Townsville and Tully on the Spirit of Queensland.

What unfolded over the next 10 days was not just stunning vistas and family fun, but also interesting conversations with fellow passengers, making this an unforgettable adventure.

Let me tell you about my recent rail journey to North Queensland.

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Rail Journey - Spirit of Queensland at Tully

The Spirit of Queensland pulls into Tully Railway Station.

A slow yet mesmerising rail journey

Picture this – a long-haul rail journey from Maryborough to Townsville and Tully, surrounded by breathtaking scenery and wildlife. It was a peaceful escape from the daily grind, allowing me to truly relax and take in the beauty around me.

At Townsville, I had something truly exciting waiting for me. My youngest son and his partner had just welcomed the newest addition to our family, little Bryson. The joy of meeting my grandchild was indescribable.

After enjoying lots of baby cuddles and exploring the stunning sights of Townsville, such as the breathtaking vistas from Castle Hill to Magnetic Island, and strolling along the vibrant Strand, it was time for my next adventure.

My other son whisked me off for a 2.5-hour drive north to the charming town of Tully, known for being one of Queensland’s major sugar hotspots and arguably the rainiest spot in Australia.

Life with his wife and kiddies, Riley and Rhys, in the coastal village that’s a half-hour drive from Mission Beach is nothing short of idyllic. Palm-fringed beaches, tropical rainforests, and the magnificent Great Barrier Reef are just a stone’s throw away. It’s paradise.

But, before I take you further, let us go back to the beginning of this epic journey.

Rail Journey - Overlooking Townsville from the top of Castle Hill

Overlooking Townsville from the top of Castle Hill.

Don’t miss out next winter – book your railbed early!

I caught the Queensland Rail bus from Stocklands Shopping Centre in Hervey Bay for a smooth half-hour ride to the Maryborough Transit Centre, where fellow travellers joined us for the next leg of the adventure.

Maryborough, with all its heritage buildings, cultural significance, and industrial history, was my home for 27 years before moving to Hervey Bay in 2019. The city holds a special place in my heart.

Fun fact: Maryborough is the birthplace of P.L. Travers, the author of the classic children’s book and movie Mary Poppins. There’s a touch of magic in the air!

Rail journey - train interior

Economy class is comfortable with high-back leather-look seats and plenty of legroom.

As I waited for the train at Maryborough West Railway Station, the chilly winds were relentless, but the friendly Queensland Rail staff made me feel welcome and guided me to my designated and sheltered spot. At 7.30 pm, the train departed, and I settled into my economy-class seat.

Now, I had grand plans of booking one of those luxurious Railbeds, but alas, they were all booked out. Winter months in Queensland are prime travel time, so you have to plan well ahead.

Instead, I treated myself to a Trtl Travel Pillow. Compact, lightweight, and endorsed by Lonely Planet Magazine, it made the journey feel like first class.

And so, my adventure began. A 14-hour journey lay ahead of me, with the promise of arriving in Townsville at 9.38 am the next day. Well, if you count the Rail Bus leg from Hervey Bay to Maryborough, it’s more like 15.5 hours. But who’s counting when you’re having the time of your life?

Be comfortable in economy with a Trtl Travel Pillow

You’ve probably heard horror stories of being stuck beside an annoying traveller on long-haul journeys. But lucky for me, I have yet to experience such an ordeal, and this trip was no exception.

I was lucky enough to be seated next to an absolute gem of a guy, John Corbett, whom I’ll affectionately call Mr Cyclist. He’s a retired essential service officer who now spends much of his time exploring the world on his bike.

Mr Cyclist was on his way to Townsville with his trusty road bike in the luggage carriage, and planned to pedal back down south along the National Trail, a grand adventure akin to Bill Bryson’s famous A Walk in the Woods.

The National Trail is Australia’s ultimate quest for independent explorers, spanning 5330 kilometres from Cooktown to Healesville. This incredible trail takes adventurers through stock routes, bush tracks, fire trails, and scenic roads along the Great Dividing Range.

For over three decades, the iconic R.M. Williams has lent his name to this extraordinary expedition. Teaming up with the Australian Trail Horse Riders Association, they have brought to life a trail that immerses hikers, horse riders, cyclists, and packers in the rich history of Australia’s stock routes.

Overnight, however, Mr Cyclist attempted to catch some much-needed shut-eye, but his quest for comfort came up short. Like me, a fellow survivor of missed opportunities, he had missed out on a coveted luxurious Railbed booking and settled for economy class.

Little did he know, a Trtl Travel Pillow could have been his saving grace. Instead, he resorted to stretching out on a dining car seat, only to be chipped by a rail staff member for his audacity. Turns out that sleeping in the dining car is against QR’s rules. Oops!

rail travel - man collecting his bike from a train.

John Corbett, aka Mr Cyclist, collects his bike from the baggage area on the Townsville Railway Station platform.

Rise and shine!

As we opened our eyes the next morning, the sun greeted us with a breathtaking show over the mountains near Mackay. We couldn’t help but soak in the beauty while savouring a breakfast of raisin toast and tea in the dining car.

Here’s the plot twist: our train had a bit of a hiccup with the signals during the night, causing it to run behind schedule. But hey, that only added to the adventure! Finally, we arrived in Townsville around 11 am, ready to continue our epic journeys.

All aboard! Family fun on the Innisfail Mini Rail

In Tully, I had a blast with my family. Our adventure started with a quick jaunt to Innisfail, 53 kilometres to the north, where we all took rides on the Innisfail Mini Rail.

This delightful miniature train chugs along every second Sunday of the month at the beautiful 50-ha Warrina Lakes Park. We soaked up the scenery as we zipped past the serene lily-covered lake and ventured through lush pockets of rainforest.

The Innisfail Mini Rail Club, a squad of awesome volunteers, is the brains behind this fantastic train ride that has been entertaining folks since 2017.

Oh, and there was a terrific kids’ playground nearby too!

rail journey - Innisfail Mini Rail

Families enjoy a ride on the Innisfail Mini Rail.

Roll on down to Murdering Point Winery

Despite the ominous name, Murdering Point Winery was anything but scary.

As we adults sipped on top-notch wines, the little ones, Riley and Thomas-the-Tank-Engine-fanatic Rhys, were in awe as a cane train hauling sugar cane rolled right by the entrance.

Founded in 2001 by the Berryman family, Murdering Point Winery has gained a reputation for its exceptional wines and innovative use of exotic tropical fruits.

The winery offers an array of uniquely Australian red and white fruit wines, ports, liqueurs, and creams that transport your taste buds to a tropical paradise.

rail journey - Jodie pours a sample of delicious tropical fruit wine at Murdering Point Winery.

Jody pours a sample of delicious tropical fruit wine at Murdering Point Winery.

Fish & Chips on the Beach with Tully Coast Guard

What’s better than white sand and kids’ playgrounds at Mission Beach? How about enjoying Fish & Chips on the Beach at the Tully Coast Guard’s annual fundraising event with the stunning sunset as the backdrop? It was the perfect finale for my time in Tully for 2023.

rail journey - sunset at Tully

The brilliant finale to my North Queensland visit was the Tully Coast Guard’s Fish & Chips on the Beach with this stunning sunset as the backdrop.

Discover a lush oasis at Tully Railway Station

rail journey - Tully railway station platform

Potted ferns dot the Tully Railway Station.

Too soon, it was time to bid farewell to the family escapade and make my way back to Hervey Bay. At about 11.30 am, I hopped aboard the Spirit of Queensland once more at the charming Tully Railway Station, nestled near the heart of town.

This station had quite the eventful past – it endured some serious water damage thanks to the notorious Cyclone Yasi back in February 2011, but it’s since undergone a refurbishment. You can still spot the remnants of the old station building on the south side, with visible battle scars.

With potted palms and lush hanging ferns dotting the platform, it exudes an enchanting tropical atmosphere. It’s the perfect spot to kick back and wait for the next leg of my adventure. Time flies when you’re surrounded by this blissful oasis.

 

Find a travel buddy on the Spirit of Queensland

On my return journey from Tully to Maryborough, first I had the pleasure of sitting next to Mr Garden Guru, a fascinating chap with long hair, a beard, and a love for faded jeans.

Not only was he a successful garden business owner in Cairns, but he was also a marketing guru who spilt the beans on using artificial intelligence for blogging.

But wait, there’s more! He was also a vegan on the hunt for some fruit in the train’s galley, only to be disappointed. Luckily, he had a stash of lychees in his backpack, which he happily devoured.

When Mr Garden Guru hopped off in Townsville to pick up his new ute and return to Cairns, I was accompanied by my new travel buddy – Mr Entrepreneur.

This former tobacco farmer turned restaurant owner turned garden maintenance enthusiast knew how to make some serious money by mowing grass and trimming shrubs in North Queensland.

He was headed to Brisbane to reunite with his wife, who had arrived a few days earlier.

Together, they were going on a shopping adventure looking for a motorhome, eager to join the ranks of the “grey nomads.”

As for me, my time on the Spirit of Queensland came to an end at Maryborough West at about 7.30 am, and I boarded the Queensland Rail Bus bound for Hervey Bay.

After a total of about 37 hours of rail time (including delays), I left with cherished memories and a renewed appreciation for the magic of rail travel.

North or south? The choice is yours!

Looking for a relaxing way to tour Queensland’s breathtaking coast? Meet the Spirit of Queensland, your ticket to adventure!

rail journey - train at a platform

With regular weekly services, this fabulous train will take you to see friends and family, or let you explore some of Queensland’s most stunning destinations.

Think Whitsundays, Townsville, Cairns, Bundaberg, Fraser Coast, Sunshine Coast, and Brisbane – the list goes on. And if you’re feeling extra adventurous, you can even connect to the glamorous Gold Coast.

Whether you crave the natural wonders of the north or the dazzling lights of Brisbane, the Spirit of Queensland has got you covered.

It’s a convenient way to travel between Brisbane and Cairns. So why wait? Hop aboard and let the journey begin!


Jocelyn travelled on the Spirit of Queensland at her own cost.
Published 20 July 2023

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If you enjoyed this train-inspired post, you might also enjoy these:

A Croquet-lover’s Guide to Exploring the Wide Bay
All Aboard the Mary Valley Rattler

 

 

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Tour Hinchinbrook with Swainie

Top 5 ways to unwind with a reef tour

Update (20 July 2023): Annette Swaine is no longer with Port of Call. Boats are still available for hire, and other operators in the area also offer guided and self-guided options for exploring the region.

IF YOU’RE looking for a top spot to relax, far away from city crowds and office desks, the Hinchinbrook Channel near Cardwell is one of the best in Queensland.

Port of Call skipper Annette Swaine lives and breathes a boatie’s life, taking reef tours through the channel and helping people with their boating and fishing supplies.

“I’ve found my happy place,” she beamed.

I met Annette, affectionately known as ‘Swainie’, while recently visiting one of my sons, Steve, and his family in North Queensland, where they now live and work, in paradise.  And I thought I was lucky just to visit!

When Steve suggested taking a reef tour through the Hinchinbrook Channel with Swainie, he didn’t have to twist my arm. The tour is listed on TripAdvisor as one of the best in the region. I quickly agreed.

Swainie was a terrific host, sharing lots of information throughout the four-hour trip on board Osprey, Port of Call’s Sailfish Cat.

Below are the top 5 things I learned about the area that day.

1. Crab fossils wash ashore at Ramsay Bay

Reef tour - woman holding fossilised crabs

Taking us ashore at Ramsay Bay, Swainie showed us crab fossils that had washed onto the beach. The species was unknown. Could they be rare Fiddler Crabs?

The Discover Port Hinchinbrook website reads:

“Fossilised crabs, including a species of Fiddler Crab (6000 years old), are found in the creeks of the Island and on the shore of Ramsay Bay.

“There are only two other places (Southern California and the Panama Canal) in the world where fossilised Fiddler Crabs have been found.”

Alas, Dr Marissa McNamara, Queensland Museum Collection Manager Crustacea, said this fossil was not a Fiddler Crab.

“It is a crab, but unfortunately, the species cannot be determined from the photograph,” Dr McNamara said.

“This crab specimen is termed a subfossil. It is probably 5000 to 8000 years old, and as such, it represents one of the same species that we see living in the area today.

“Subfossils are often casts of crabs that have been in their burrows and gotten smothered with a heavy load of siltation from a flood.

“Generally, soft-muddy bottom inshore or mangrove species are found, like mud crabs or sentinel crabs.

“Fiddler Crabs are not typically represented.

“Often fossils like this are deposited during times when the sea level was somewhat higher, and that is why they can get washed out of river banks or mangroves during cyclones or any change to the path of creek channels.

“They often turn up around the mouth of the Brisbane River, and Magnetic is another hot spot, but they can be found in many places, including Hinchinbrook Island.”

2. Hinchinbrook Channel is a nature photographer’s paradise

reef tour - sea creature

Sea creatures can be found on the beach of Ramsay Bay.

Heavy fog blanketed Cardwell as we set off about 8 am, but soon we were beyond the fog and cruising across the tranquil waterway towards Hinchinbrook Island.

A few nautical miles out, eagle-eyed Swainie spotted a saltwater crocodile in an area they liked to frequent. She said crocs were regularly sighted there.

Saltwater crocodiles can be found from the tip of Cape York to as far south as Gladstone, and sometimes even further.

Queensland Department of Environment and Science records show crocodile sightings were reported at Burrum Heads and Toogoom as recently as April 2020.

Swainie said Hinchinbrook Channel was a major feeding ground for dugongs.

“Dolphins, green turtles and a wide variety of fish and crustaceans also live in the waterway,” she said.

Fishing wasn’t on our agenda, but I was able to photograph garfish as they skimmed across the water’s surface. It was a photo opportunity too good to miss.

The area also supports a rich diversity of birdlife, including Torresian Imperial Pigeons, Torres Strait Pigeons (Ducula spilorrhoa) or nutmeg pigeons.

While ashore at Ramsay Bay, we were on the lookout for the vulnerable beach thick-knees (Burhinus neglectus), but we weren’t that lucky.

On Hinchinbrook Island, the tropical habitat also provides refuge for many endangered species, including the giant tree frog.

3. You can get closer to nature on the Thorsborne Trail

reef tour - Hinchinbrook Channel

The Thorsborne Trail winds its way along the eastern edge of Hinchinbrook Island.

A few days earlier, Swainie had dropped off some backpackers at Ramsay Bay as they set off to hike the Thorsborne Trail (commonly known as the East Coast Trail).

The Discover Port Hinchinbrook website lists the Thorsborne Trail as one of the world’s best backpacking adventures.

“This 32km trail winds its way along the eastern edge of the magnificent island in the shadow of the rugged Mt Bowen,” it reads.

“It snakes its way through a tropical wilderness, along spectacular ocean beaches and crosses numerous crystal clear mountain streams.

“Campsites are on beautiful beaches, beside freshwater streams or near magnificent mountain stream waterfalls.”

As part of our reef tour, Swainie picked up the backpackers from George Point on the island’s southern end and ferried them back to Cardwell, all with cameras holding hundreds of photos of their adventure.

4. Charter a boat and go fishing   

reef tour - Port of Call

Fishing is a popular pastime at Cardwell and Hinchinbrook Island in North Queensland.

 Throwing a line in the water might have provided us with a dinner of fish that night, except this was an impromptu trip.

With some forward planning, things might have been different.

Swainie said North Queensland was internationally renowned as one of Australia’s tourism destinations.

“The Hinchinbrook Channel, with its tranquil waters, is an angler’s paradise,” she said.

“On the reef, you can fish for coral trout, mackerel, giant trevally or nannygai. Barramundi and mangrove jack can be found in the estuaries and rivers.”

 

5. Research history

Rugged mountains on Hinchinbrook Island

A warplane that crashed in the rugged mountains of Hinchinbrook Island in 1941 remains scattered at the site.

 If you’re into researching history, there’s no shortage of topics with which to while away the hours in the Hinchinbrook Island and Cardwell areas.

After picking up the backpackers from George Point, we headed back to Cardwell. On the way, Swainie pointed to where the wreckage of a World War II plane still lies.

A Queensland Government website that’s dedicated to World War II history reports (in part) that on 18 December 1941, a USAAF Liberator bomber known as ‘Texas Terror’ lifted off from Garbutt airbase, Townsville, for Iron Range on the Cape York Peninsula but soon disappeared.

Searches were made, but no trace of the plane was found until two Aborigines searching the gullies on Hinchinbrook Island for alluvial tin reported finding some burned US currency in the creeks at the base of Mount Straloch.

In early 1944, searchers found the wreckage on the southern flank of Mount Straloch. The aircraft had struck the face of the mountain some 150 to 180 metres below the summit, killing all 12 people on board.

The wreckage remains scattered over the area.

For more information on the wreckage, visit https://wanderstories.space/mt-straloch/ 

A return trip is on our bucket list

Our impromptu reef tour with Port of Call skipper Swainie gave us a preview of what we could see and do in and around the Hinchinbrook Channel. A return trip is definitely on our bucket list.

Port of Call Boating and Fishing is located at Port Hinchinbrook, Cardwell. For more information, visit https://portofcallshop.com.au/about-us/%20

Details on Hinchinbrook Island can be found at www.porthinchinbrook.com.au and https://parks.des.qld.gov.au/parks/hinchinbrook

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