Tag Archive for: Mission Beach

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Are Crocodiles Dinosaurs? Why Our Crocs Outlived the Dinosaurs

Crocodiles were prehistoric — but they’re not dinosaurs.

CROCODILES tend to make the news only when something has gone terribly wrong. An attack. A close call. A reminder that in parts of Australia, we are not the top of the food chain.

Yet long before headlines and helicopters, crocodiles were already here.

They are reptiles — like lizards, turtles and snakes — and they possess one of the most ancient lineages of any living animal.

When we ask are crocodiles dinosaurs? we’re really asking a deeper question about how life on Earth evolved — and who survived when others did not.

*This article contains affiliate links. If you click through and make a purchase, we may earn a commission, at no extra cost to you. It’s how we keep creating helpful stories and guides for you.

Crocodiles: A saltwater crocodile in Australia resting along a tropical riverbank

Wild places demand awareness and respect, particularly in regions where large crocodiles are known to inhabit the waterways.

Are Crocodiles Dinosaurs?

The short answer is no.

Crocodiles belong to a group of animals known as archosaurs — a clade (or evolutionary branch) that also includes dinosaurs and pterosaurs. They share a common ancestor, which is why the confusion is understandable.

But crocodiles branched off the family tree long before what we recognise as dinosaurs emerged.

One of the key differences lies in body structure. Dinosaurs had hind legs positioned directly beneath their bodies — an upright stance. Modern birds, which are now considered living descendants of dinosaurs, share this trait.

Crocodiles do not.

Their legs extend more to the side, giving them that distinctive low, sprawling posture. It may look primitive, but it has proven remarkably effective.

So while crocodiles lived alongside dinosaurs, and while they share ancient ancestry, they are not dinosaurs themselves.

Survivors of Extinction

Around 66 million years ago, the mass extinction event that ended the age of dinosaurs wiped out roughly three-quarters of life on Earth.

Dinosaurs disappeared (with the exception of birds). Pterosaurs vanished. Marine reptiles such as ichthyosaurs and plesiosaurs were lost to history.

Crocodilians survived.

Why? Scientists suggest a combination of factors: adaptable diets, semi-aquatic lifestyles, and the ability to go long periods without food. In evolutionary terms, they were built for endurance.

The modern Saltwater Crocodile is a direct descendant of that resilience.

Where Are Crocodiles Found in Australia?

Crocodiles in Australia inhabit tropical northern waterways.

You can expect them in rivers, estuaries and coastal regions from K’gari (Fraser Island) across northern Queensland and the Northern Territory, through to Shark Bay in Western Australia.

In these regions, warnings are clear and consistent — and they should be heeded.

Crocodiles are intelligent. They learn patterns. If fish are cleaned at the same riverbank repeatedly, they notice. If scraps are thrown into the water, they associate humans with food.

They are not unpredictable monsters. They are highly efficient predators behaving exactly as nature designed them to behave.

And that is precisely why caution matters.

Crocodile Safety

  • Never swim in waterways where crocodiles are known to inhabit

  • Avoid cleaning fish or discarding scraps in the same location

  • Keep well back from riverbanks and boat ramps

  • Assume crocodiles may be present even if none are visible

In northern Australia, complacency is the real danger.

How Big Are Crocodiles?

The largest measured crocodile in modern times was Lolong, captured in the Philippines at 6.17 metres.

In Australia, there have been claims of even larger individuals. One specimen, known as Krys, was shot near Normanton in 1958 and claimed to measure 8.64 metres. That measurement, however, remains contested.

For context, a fully grown saltwater crocodile regularly reaches five metres — more than enough to ensure that a human encounter is unlikely to end well.

Looking further back in time, prehistoric crocodilians were even larger.

The giant Sarcosuchus imperator is believed to have grown up to 12 metres in length — an animal that would have dwarfed most modern predators.

Compared to that, today’s crocodiles are modest.

Crocodiles and Dinosaurs: The Bigger Picture

So no — crocodiles are not dinosaurs.

But they are something perhaps even more remarkable.

They are survivors.

They have endured asteroid strikes, continental drift, ice ages and the slow reshaping of oceans and river systems. They have adapted while entire branches of life vanished.

In Australia’s tropical north, they remain a powerful reminder that wild places are not theme parks. They are ecosystems — balanced, ancient and deserving of respect.

As humans continue to expand into crocodile habitat, coexistence depends on knowledge, caution and a willingness to understand the natural world rather than dominate it.

Crocodiles may not be dinosaurs.

But in evolutionary terms, they are living relics of a world far older than our own — and still very much in charge of their domain.

 

Recommended for the Tropical North

Exploring northern Australia means heat, humidity, sudden downpours — and genuinely wild landscapes.

Pack light, pack smart

Breathable clothing, a wide-brim hat, insect protection, dry bags for electronics and a good pair of binoculars for wildlife spotting from a safe distance all make travel more comfortable. I visit Amazon Australia for travel essentials.

Don’t overlook travel insurance

Remote roads, river crossings and adventure experiences come with added variables. Comprehensive cover — particularly for regional and adventure travel — offers peace of mind. I recommend comparing policies through AllClear Travel Insurance before heading north.

Taste the landscape

Northern Australia isn’t only croc country — it’s also home to remarkable native ingredients. Kakadu plum, one of the world’s richest natural sources of vitamin C, grows in these same rugged regions. If you’re curious about authentic Australian flavours, explore products made with Kakadu plum and other native botanicals.

Wild places reward preparation — and a little curiosity.

*This section contains carefully selected affiliate links. If you choose to purchase, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

 

About the author

Peter Woodland is a contributor to Jocelyn Magazine. A former teacher and school librarian, his interests include computing, geography, palaeontology and good food.

*This piece was first published in Jocelyn Magazine in 2022. It has been lightly edited to update travel information.

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Best Things to do Near Mission Beach

Mission Beach as a base: Easy day trips & local highlights

MISSION Beach sits on Queensland’s Cassowary Coast, a seaside community of just over a thousand people, framed by rainforest, reef and wide, uncrowded beaches. It’s a place layered with history. Long before European settlement, the area was — and remains — Country for the Djiru people, with evidence of long occupation found in middens, fish traps, rock shelters and ceremonial sites around Mission Beach and nearby Dunk Island. The first European landholders, the Cutten brothers, took up their selections here in 1886. Today, this peaceful stretch of North Queensland coastline holds another distinction: it’s the closest point on the mainland to the Great Barrier Reef.

I came to know the region several years ago while my eldest son and his wife were working in Tully, around 30 kilometres inland. Travelling north from Maryborough on the Spirit of Queensland became part of the adventure — an unhurried overnight journey, waking to sunrise as the train passed west of Mackay, with a conveniently timed stop at Tully. During one memorable stay, I pet-sat their dog and Albino Darwin Carpet Python while they holidayed overseas, giving me the freedom to explore widely by day and return to a familiar base each night. While Tully is a lovely place to stay, neighbouring Mission Beach is generally better geared for visitors. What follows in Best things to do near Mission Beach are some of the highlights from those years of return visits, best enjoyed in the cooler, calmer months between May and August.

Best Things to do in Mission Beach - South Mission Beach

Low tide at South Mission Beach reveals rippled sand, shallow channels and long stretches of shoreline, perfect for walking, thinking, and watching the light shift.

Best Things to do Near Mission Beach - Southern Cassowary

Southern Cassowary. Photo by Matt Cornish, Canva Pro.

Sunrise walks, wide beaches and cassowary country

One of the greatest pleasures of Mission Beach is watching the sun rise over the Coral Sea. Just a short stroll from the centre of town, the long sweep of pale sand becomes a peaceful theatre at dawn — soft pinks and golds spreading across the water, palm fronds silhouetted against the light. It’s an easy win for early risers and anyone who enjoys capturing colour before the day properly begins.

Dawn and dusk are also prime times to spot the endangered southern cassowary, with South Mission Beach known for regular sightings. These magnificent birds are wild and powerful, so a few basics matter: never feed them, keep at least 20–30 metres distance, and if approached, don’t run — stand your ground and slowly back away, placing a tree or car between you and the bird.

Five kilometres north, Bingil Bay makes an easy detour, especially for breakfast at Bingil Bay Cafe before the day unfolds.

 

Tea, cocoa, and coffee stop in tropical North Queensland

I come from a long line of tea drinkers. You might assume that’s an outback habit — I grew up in Barcaldine, after all — but our family’s tea loyalty actually leads north. My great-uncle Harold had business interests with Nerada Tea near Innisfail, and family legend had it he was worth more than a quid or two. To stay in his good graces — should he ever think of us when writing his will — it was considered wise to keep Nerada Tea well stocked in case of an impromptu visit. He never did. Barcaldine was a long way from Innisfail.

Years later, being within easy reach of the region felt like an invitation. Visiting Nerada Tea was a way of reconnecting with that thread of family history. It also opened the door to another discovery: this part of North Queensland is perfectly suited to growing cocoa and coffee, too. Between tea plantations, chocolate makers and coffee stops, I happily did the rounds — and thanked Great-Uncle Harold for the nudge.

Best Things to do Near Mission Beach - tea, cocoa and coffee plantations.

Before chocolate bars, brewed cups and café stops, there’s the farm. Tea bushes growing thick and glossy, cocoa pods cracked open to reveal their pale fruit, and coffee cherries ripening patiently on the branch. Around Mission Beach and the nearby tablelands, these everyday pleasures begin quietly, shaped by climate, soil and time — a reminder that some of the best things to do near Mission Beach start long before you sit down to taste them.

Tully: Sugar cane, record rainfall and white-water adrenaline

Sugar cane is the backbone of Tully, and you don’t need a history book to be reminded. During the milling season, plumes of smoke rise from the mill’s smokestack, a familiar sight that signals harvest time and steady work. Cane growing has shaped the town for more than a century, and for visitors less familiar with the industry, guided tours of the sugar mill offer a practical way to understand how central it remains to life here. I skipped the tour — having lived in Maryborough (Qld) and covered sugar seasons regularly as a journalist — but it’s well worth considering if the process is new to you.

On one visit, Tully delivered a different kind of spectacle. The opening day of the 2018 Pre-World White Water Rafting Championships coincided with my five-week house-sitting stay, and the action in Tully Gorge was unforgettable. I slipped back into sports-photographer mode and captured the adrenaline as teams tackled the rapids. Rafting remains a major drawcard here, with local operators offering trips for adventurous first-timers.

All of this unfolds in Australia’s wettest populated place — a record marked proudly by the towering Golden Gumboot in Banyan Park.

Best Things to do Near Mission Beach - Sugar cane, record rainfall and white-water adrenaline.

Tully’s reputation is shaped by water and work. Sugar cane fields feed the mill, its smokestack a familiar landmark. Known as one of the wettest places in Australia, Tully wears its rainfall with pride, celebrated in the town’s famous Golden Gumboot. Just beyond town, Tully Gorge shows its wilder side. During the World White Water Rafting Championships, the river became a global stage — fast, technical and unforgiving — a reminder that this landscape isn’t just scenic, it’s powerful.

Start early for the Hinchinbrook Channel

The pace slowed noticeably once we reached Cardwell and headed out towards the Hinchinbrook Channel, hosted by one of my son’s former workmates. We left early, pushing through a thick layer of morning fog that dulled sound and blurred the edges of land and water. The air was cool and still, broken only by the low hum of the motor and the soft slap of water against the hull.

As the fog lifted, the channel revealed itself in layers — mangroves edging the shoreline, wide stretches of calm water, and the looming bulk of Hinchinbrook Island rising ahead. We cruised north toward Ramsay Bay, where we went ashore and wandered along the broad, empty beach; the scale of the place was immediately apparent. It felt elemental rather than dramatic — powerful, yet restful.

While our host, known locally as Swainie, has since moved from Cardwell, other operators offer similar tours into the channel and surrounding waters. For more details on the route and what we saw along the way, I’ve shared a separate account of that day on Jocelyn Magazine.

Best Things to do Near Mission Beach - Start early for the Hinchinbrook Channel.

From Cardwell, a boat ride into the Hinchinbrook Channel reveals a different rhythm — mangroves slipping past, soft wakes curling behind the boat, and mountains rising where sea and rainforest meet. Stepping ashore at Ramsay Bay feels elemental rather than dramatic: long, empty beaches, the sound of water, and time slowed right down. Even small details hold your attention — a starfish washed in by the tide, briefly still before the water claims it again.

Printing presses, spy cameras and Art Deco streetscapes

At Historic Village Herberton, history isn’t static — it’s demonstrated. Among more than 60 original buildings, complete with shops, a working tearoom, antique vehicles, small engines, fashion displays and rows of John Deere tractors, my attention was drawn to a volunteer in period dress operating a vintage printing press. Nearby sat a newspaper-folding machine, both relics of a publishing world well before my own time in media. Having worked in journalism between 1996 and 2020, seeing how newspapers were produced long before then only deepened the fascination.

Elsewhere in town, the Herberton Spy and Camera Museum offered a different kind of collection. Home to rare police spy cameras, Cold War–era surveillance equipment and historic military gear, it’s an unexpectedly absorbing stop — particularly for anyone with a curiosity about photography and hidden histories.

Back on the coast, Innisfail reveals another layer of heritage through its remarkable art deco streetscape. Often described as Australia’s art deco capital, many of the town’s buildings were rebuilt after the devastating 1918 cyclone and can be explored on a self-guided walk — elegant, confident, and faintly reminiscent of a Great Gatsby set.

Best Things to do Near Mission Beach - Printing presses, spy cameras and Art Deco streetscapes.

In Herberton Historic Village, history isn’t behind glass — it’s demonstrated, explained and brought to life, whether that’s an antique printing press still standing ready for use, or the stories that come with it. Nearby, the Spy Camera Museum adds a layer of intrigue. Back on the coast, Innisfail Courthouse anchors the town’s famous art deco streetscape — solid, elegant and confident.

Paronella Park: A tropical dream frozen in time

Time travel has always fascinated me. Standing among the moss-softened stonework of Paronella Park, it’s easy to imagine it happening. Close your eyes, and the sound of water over Mena Creek seems to change; laughter drifts across terraces, footsteps echo on stairways, and the outlines of a once-grand tropical castle sharpen into focus. For a moment, you’re no longer a visitor — you’re a guest.

The park was designed and built between 1929 and 1935 by Spanish immigrant José Paronella, who envisioned an entertainment precinct inspired by European architecture. Set among rainforest and waterfalls, it featured swimming areas, tennis courts, picnic grounds and places to stroll — ambitious, romantic, and entirely personal. After decades of decline, Paronella Park has been carefully revived and is now both heritage-listed and eco-certified.

That sense of past and present has drawn filmmakers, too. The ruins featured in the 1993 film Sniper, while much of the 2018 feature Celeste, starring Radha Mitchell, was shot among its public spaces. It’s no stretch to see why — Paronella Park doesn’t just tell a story; it holds one.

Best Things to do Near Mission Beach - Paronella Park: a tropical dream frozen in time.

Romance and mystery. Hidden within the rainforest, Paronella Park feels like a place where time slips sideways. Water tumbles over the falls, moss softens stone balustrades, and fountains spill gently into lily-filled ponds.

Creative corners and small-town surprises beyond the beach

Best thing to do near Mission Beach - collage of photos

The arty vibe around Mission Beach runs further than you might expect — from Cardwell through to Ravenshoe and up to Yungaburra on the Atherton Tableland. Think cafés with character, small galleries, gift shops, lively old hotels… and the occasional chance to try something new. While I happily encouraged my kids into pottery classes years ago, it took a stay in Mission Beach for me to finally have a go myself — joining a group of like-minded souls to create smoking dragons. Turns out travel doesn’t just shift the scenery; sometimes it nudges you to indulge your inner potter — smoke and all!

Best things to do near Mission Beach: How to make it all doable

One of Mission Beach’s strengths is how reachable it is — and how easily you can shape your time once you arrive. From Brisbane, flying into Cairns is the quickest option, followed by a scenic two-hour drive south along the coast. Driving the full distance is a longer commitment but a rewarding one, especially if you enjoy breaking the journey into regional stopovers.

For me, the most memorable way to travel north has been by rail. The Spirit of Queensland offers a relaxed overnight journey from Brisbane, with sleeper-style comfort and wide windows that invite you to watch the landscape change. Waking to sunrise in North Queensland sets the tone beautifully, and with stops at towns like Tully, it’s a practical option as well as a nostalgic one.

Once based in Mission Beach, day trips become a matter of preference rather than pressure. Tully is around 30 kilometres inland; Cardwell and Hinchinbrook Channel are roughly an hour south; Innisfail sits about 55 kilometres north; and Paronella Park is an easy drive inland. None of these need to be rushed or combined — they’re best enjoyed as individual days, with time built in to return to the coast by evening. Having come to know the area over years rather than days, Mission Beach feels less like a destination and more like a familiar pause between journeys.

Planning your visit

If you’re thinking of exploring Mission Beach and the surrounding region, you’ll find accommodation options linked throughout Jocelyn Magazine. Some links are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only recommend places and experiences I’ve personally visited or genuinely believe add value to the journey.

About the author

Jocelyn Watts is a Queensland-based writer, photographer and editor of Jocelyn Magazine. With a background in journalism and a long-standing interest in regional travel, food culture and everyday stories, she focuses on places best explored slowly. Jocelyn lives in Hervey Bay and has spent years returning to Mission Beach and North Queensland while family lived in the region — experiences that continue to shape her writing and photography.

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Chocolate History Explained: Is It Really Fruit?

Is Chocolate Really a Fruit? A Short History from Cocoa Tree to Chocolate Bar

FOR ANYONE curious about chocolate history, there’s a comforting idea worth entertaining: the love of your life may be a fruit.

That’s the light-hearted theory put forward by Chris Jahnke during a guided tour of a small chocolate plantation in North Queensland.

“Chocolate is made from the seeds of the cocoa fruit,” Chris joked. “So in my mind, that makes chocolate a fruit.”

There was laughter all round — the kind that suggests people are more than happy to believe it might be true.

And while the idea is playful rather than scientific, it does have a kernel of truth. Chocolate is made from cocoa beans, which come from the fermented, dried and ground seeds of the Theobroma cacao fruit.

What complicates chocolate’s reputation, of course, is not its origin — but what happens next. The addition of fat and sugar is what turns cocoa into the indulgence we know today, and what keeps chocolate hovering between treat, comfort food and cultural obsession.

Chocolate history - coca fruit explained

Cocoa fruit exposed. Photo: Everjean from Antwerp, Belgium, Creative Commons.

Chocolate Starts as a Fruit: Cocoa, Seeds and a Popular Myth

Cocoa pods grow directly from the trunk of the cocoa tree, each one encasing rows of seeds surrounded by a sweet, sticky pulp. Those seeds are what eventually become cocoa beans — the raw material for chocolate.

Nutritionally, cocoa itself contains antioxidants and compounds that have been widely studied. It’s the processing and additions that determine whether chocolate leans closer to nourishment or indulgence.

This distinction — between cocoa and chocolate — is one of the themes that runs through the history of chocolate, and one that becomes especially clear when you see how it’s made from scratch.

From Cocoa Tree to Chocolate Bar: Inside Charley’s Chocolate Factory

I learned just how much goes into that transformation during a Cocoa Tree to Chocolate Bar tour at Charley’s Chocolate Factory, near Mission Beach in North Queensland.

Owners Chris and Lynn Jahnke are deeply immersed in the world of cocoa. After years of moving between Melbourne and Queensland, they eventually settled on a rural property at Mount Edna, not far from the coast.

The land had previously been used for bananas, then cattle, before the couple began exploring alternative crops better suited to the climate — macadamias, mangoes, lychees — all with long lead times.

Then came a moment of inspiration.

Chris recalls watching an episode of ABC Landline about cocoa and realising that, while globally beloved, chocolate is grown in surprisingly few places.

“Chocolate is moderately popular,” he quipped. “The rest, as they say, is history.”

Today, cocoa trees grow on their property, and chocolate is produced onsite — from nursery to plantation to factory — resulting in small-batch chocolate that has gained national and international recognition.

Did Chocolate Ever Count as Health Food?

Chocolate’s reputation has long swung between virtue and vice.

Research has suggested that dark chocolate, when eaten in moderation, may be associated with benefits such as improved cholesterol profiles and cardiovascular health. These findings tend to relate to cocoa content rather than sugar-laden confectionery, and they sit firmly in the “interesting, not prescriptive” category.

What history makes clear is that cocoa’s earliest use had little to do with dessert.

For thousands of years, it was consumed as a drink — bitter, frothy and valued as much for ritual as for sustenance.

Chocolate History: How the Olmecs First Made Cocoa Drinkable

Traces of cocoa have been found in drinking vessels carbon-dated to around 3,800 years ago.

The earliest civilisation associated with cocoa consumption is the Olmecs of southern Mexico. It’s believed they observed animals cracking open cocoa pods, discarding the seeds and consuming only the sweet pulp.

Humans, however, went a step further.

The Olmecs fermented the seeds, dried them in the sun, roasted them over fire and ground the nibs into a paste — creating a drink that was both nourishing and culturally significant.

How they arrived at this process without modern food science remains one of the enduring marvels of food history.

For much of its life, cocoa remained a beverage. It wasn’t until 1847 that English chocolate maker Joseph Fry created the first solid chocolate bar, setting the stage for chocolate as we know it today.

Where Cocoa Grows — and Why North Queensland Works

Cocoa is a tropical tree with specific demands.

It thrives in hot, humid environments with consistent rainfall and grows most successfully within 15 degrees north and south of the Equator. Globally, the majority of cocoa production occurs in West African countries such as Ghana and Nigeria.

In Australia, suitable growing conditions are limited, but parts of coastal North Queensland, particularly between Tully and Mossman, offer the right combination of climate and soil.

Mission Beach sits squarely within that zone, making it one of the few places in the country where cocoa can be grown and processed locally.

Where Is Charley’s Chocolate Factory?

Charley’s Chocolate Factory is located at Mission Beach in North Queensland, between Tully and Mossman.

Here, cocoa plants are grown from seed, and chocolate is made onsite in small batches. Among its accolades, the business has been recognised under the International Cocoa Awards’ Cocoa of Excellence program.

For visitors interested in learning more about cocoa cultivation and chocolate making, further details are available via the Charley’s Chocolate Factory website.

Chocolate History: Charley's Chocolate Factory, Mission Beach.

From bean to bar, Charley’s Chocolate Factory is a reminder that some of the best food stories are grown, made and shared close to home. Cocoa pods on the tree, delicate blossoms, hands-on explanations, and rows of tropical plants thriving in North Queensland conditions — it’s chocolate with a strong sense of place. Visiting here isn’t just about tasting chocolate (though that’s reason enough); it’s about seeing how curiosity, climate and craft come together to create something special in Mission Beach.

About the author

Jocelyn Watts is a writer, editor and photographer based in Hervey Bay, Queensland. She writes about food, place and everyday culture, with a particular interest in how history, landscape and lived experience shape what — and how — we eat. Jocelyn is the editor of Jocelyn Magazine.

 

 

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Epic rail journey to a tropical paradise

Discover North Queensland on a railway adventure

AH, THE peace and tranquillity that comes with travelling by train.

Kicking back in my high-back leather-look seat, letting time pass me by as the scenery rushes past outside – it was an experience I hadn’t had for several years until I embarked on a long-haul journey from Maryborough to North Queensland in July 2023.

Instead of dealing with the usual stress of airports and traffic, this year my annual trip north took me on a slow yet mesmerizing voyage of discovery from Maryborough to Townsville and Tully on the Spirit of Queensland.

What unfolded over the next 10 days was not just stunning vistas and family fun, but also interesting conversations with fellow passengers, making this an unforgettable adventure.

Let me tell you about my recent rail journey to North Queensland.

  • This article may contain affiliate links and advertisements. If you click on these links, make a purchase, or share this content, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps us continue creating valuable content for you. Thank you for your support.

 

Rail Journey - Spirit of Queensland at Tully

The Spirit of Queensland pulls into Tully Railway Station.

A slow yet mesmerising rail journey

Picture this – a long-haul rail journey from Maryborough to Townsville and Tully, surrounded by breathtaking scenery and wildlife. It was a peaceful escape from the daily grind, allowing me to truly relax and take in the beauty around me.

At Townsville, I had something truly exciting waiting for me. My youngest son and his partner had just welcomed the newest addition to our family, little Bryson. The joy of meeting my grandchild was indescribable.

After enjoying lots of baby cuddles and exploring the stunning sights of Townsville, such as the breathtaking vistas from Castle Hill to Magnetic Island, and strolling along the vibrant Strand, it was time for my next adventure.

My other son whisked me off for a 2.5-hour drive north to the charming town of Tully, known for being one of Queensland’s major sugar hotspots and arguably the rainiest spot in Australia.

Life with his wife and kiddies, Riley and Rhys, in the coastal village that’s a half-hour drive from Mission Beach is nothing short of idyllic. Palm-fringed beaches, tropical rainforests, and the magnificent Great Barrier Reef are just a stone’s throw away. It’s paradise.

But, before I take you further, let us go back to the beginning of this epic journey.

Rail Journey - Overlooking Townsville from the top of Castle Hill

Overlooking Townsville from the top of Castle Hill.

Don’t miss out next winter – book your railbed early!

I caught the Queensland Rail bus from Stocklands Shopping Centre in Hervey Bay for a smooth half-hour ride to the Maryborough Transit Centre, where fellow travellers joined us for the next leg of the adventure.

Maryborough, with all its heritage buildings, cultural significance, and industrial history, was my home for 27 years before moving to Hervey Bay in 2019. The city holds a special place in my heart.

Fun fact: Maryborough is the birthplace of P.L. Travers, the author of the classic children’s book and movie Mary Poppins. There’s a touch of magic in the air!

Rail journey - train interior

Economy class is comfortable with high-back leather-look seats and plenty of legroom.

As I waited for the train at Maryborough West Railway Station, the chilly winds were relentless, but the friendly Queensland Rail staff made me feel welcome and guided me to my designated and sheltered spot. At 7.30 pm, the train departed, and I settled into my economy-class seat.

Now, I had grand plans of booking one of those luxurious Railbeds, but alas, they were all booked out. Winter months in Queensland are prime travel time, so you have to plan well ahead.

Instead, I treated myself to a Trtl Travel Pillow. Compact, lightweight, and endorsed by Lonely Planet Magazine, it made the journey feel like first class.

And so, my adventure began. A 14-hour journey lay ahead of me, with the promise of arriving in Townsville at 9.38 am the next day. Well, if you count the Rail Bus leg from Hervey Bay to Maryborough, it’s more like 15.5 hours. But who’s counting when you’re having the time of your life?

Be comfortable in economy with a Trtl Travel Pillow

You’ve probably heard horror stories of being stuck beside an annoying traveller on long-haul journeys. But lucky for me, I have yet to experience such an ordeal, and this trip was no exception.

I was lucky enough to be seated next to an absolute gem of a guy, John Corbett, whom I’ll affectionately call Mr Cyclist. He’s a retired essential service officer who now spends much of his time exploring the world on his bike.

Mr Cyclist was on his way to Townsville with his trusty road bike in the luggage carriage, and planned to pedal back down south along the National Trail, a grand adventure akin to Bill Bryson’s famous A Walk in the Woods.

The National Trail is Australia’s ultimate quest for independent explorers, spanning 5330 kilometres from Cooktown to Healesville. This incredible trail takes adventurers through stock routes, bush tracks, fire trails, and scenic roads along the Great Dividing Range.

For over three decades, the iconic R.M. Williams has lent his name to this extraordinary expedition. Teaming up with the Australian Trail Horse Riders Association, they have brought to life a trail that immerses hikers, horse riders, cyclists, and packers in the rich history of Australia’s stock routes.

Overnight, however, Mr Cyclist attempted to catch some much-needed shut-eye, but his quest for comfort came up short. Like me, a fellow survivor of missed opportunities, he had missed out on a coveted luxurious Railbed booking and settled for economy class.

Little did he know, a Trtl Travel Pillow could have been his saving grace. Instead, he resorted to stretching out on a dining car seat, only to be chipped by a rail staff member for his audacity. Turns out that sleeping in the dining car is against QR’s rules. Oops!

rail travel - man collecting his bike from a train.

John Corbett, aka Mr Cyclist, collects his bike from the baggage area on the Townsville Railway Station platform.

Rise and shine!

As we opened our eyes the next morning, the sun greeted us with a breathtaking show over the mountains near Mackay. We couldn’t help but soak in the beauty while savouring a breakfast of raisin toast and tea in the dining car.

Here’s the plot twist: our train had a bit of a hiccup with the signals during the night, causing it to run behind schedule. But hey, that only added to the adventure! Finally, we arrived in Townsville around 11 am, ready to continue our epic journeys.

All aboard! Family fun on the Innisfail Mini Rail

In Tully, I had a blast with my family. Our adventure started with a quick jaunt to Innisfail, 53 kilometres to the north, where we all took rides on the Innisfail Mini Rail.

This delightful miniature train chugs along every second Sunday of the month at the beautiful 50-ha Warrina Lakes Park. We soaked up the scenery as we zipped past the serene lily-covered lake and ventured through lush pockets of rainforest.

The Innisfail Mini Rail Club, a squad of awesome volunteers, is the brains behind this fantastic train ride that has been entertaining folks since 2017.

Oh, and there was a terrific kids’ playground nearby too!

rail journey - Innisfail Mini Rail

Families enjoy a ride on the Innisfail Mini Rail.

Roll on down to Murdering Point Winery

Despite the ominous name, Murdering Point Winery was anything but scary.

As we adults sipped on top-notch wines, the little ones, Riley and Thomas-the-Tank-Engine-fanatic Rhys, were in awe as a cane train hauling sugar cane rolled right by the entrance.

Founded in 2001 by the Berryman family, Murdering Point Winery has gained a reputation for its exceptional wines and innovative use of exotic tropical fruits.

The winery offers an array of uniquely Australian red and white fruit wines, ports, liqueurs, and creams that transport your taste buds to a tropical paradise.

rail journey - Jodie pours a sample of delicious tropical fruit wine at Murdering Point Winery.

Jody pours a sample of delicious tropical fruit wine at Murdering Point Winery.

Fish & Chips on the Beach with Tully Coast Guard

What’s better than white sand and kids’ playgrounds at Mission Beach? How about enjoying Fish & Chips on the Beach at the Tully Coast Guard’s annual fundraising event with the stunning sunset as the backdrop? It was the perfect finale for my time in Tully for 2023.

rail journey - sunset at Tully

The brilliant finale to my North Queensland visit was the Tully Coast Guard’s Fish & Chips on the Beach with this stunning sunset as the backdrop.

Discover a lush oasis at Tully Railway Station

rail journey - Tully railway station platform

Potted ferns dot the Tully Railway Station.

Too soon, it was time to bid farewell to the family escapade and make my way back to Hervey Bay. At about 11.30 am, I hopped aboard the Spirit of Queensland once more at the charming Tully Railway Station, nestled near the heart of town.

This station had quite the eventful past – it endured some serious water damage thanks to the notorious Cyclone Yasi back in February 2011, but it’s since undergone a refurbishment. You can still spot the remnants of the old station building on the south side, with visible battle scars.

With potted palms and lush hanging ferns dotting the platform, it exudes an enchanting tropical atmosphere. It’s the perfect spot to kick back and wait for the next leg of my adventure. Time flies when you’re surrounded by this blissful oasis.

 

Find a travel buddy on the Spirit of Queensland

On my return journey from Tully to Maryborough, first I had the pleasure of sitting next to Mr Garden Guru, a fascinating chap with long hair, a beard, and a love for faded jeans.

Not only was he a successful garden business owner in Cairns, but he was also a marketing guru who spilt the beans on using artificial intelligence for blogging.

But wait, there’s more! He was also a vegan on the hunt for some fruit in the train’s galley, only to be disappointed. Luckily, he had a stash of lychees in his backpack, which he happily devoured.

When Mr Garden Guru hopped off in Townsville to pick up his new ute and return to Cairns, I was accompanied by my new travel buddy – Mr Entrepreneur.

This former tobacco farmer turned restaurant owner turned garden maintenance enthusiast knew how to make some serious money by mowing grass and trimming shrubs in North Queensland.

He was headed to Brisbane to reunite with his wife, who had arrived a few days earlier.

Together, they were going on a shopping adventure looking for a motorhome, eager to join the ranks of the “grey nomads.”

As for me, my time on the Spirit of Queensland came to an end at Maryborough West at about 7.30 am, and I boarded the Queensland Rail Bus bound for Hervey Bay.

After a total of about 37 hours of rail time (including delays), I left with cherished memories and a renewed appreciation for the magic of rail travel.

North or south? The choice is yours!

Looking for a relaxing way to tour Queensland’s breathtaking coast? Meet the Spirit of Queensland, your ticket to adventure!

rail journey - train at a platform

With regular weekly services, this fabulous train will take you to see friends and family, or let you explore some of Queensland’s most stunning destinations.

Think Whitsundays, Townsville, Cairns, Bundaberg, Fraser Coast, Sunshine Coast, and Brisbane – the list goes on. And if you’re feeling extra adventurous, you can even connect to the glamorous Gold Coast.

Whether you crave the natural wonders of the north or the dazzling lights of Brisbane, the Spirit of Queensland has got you covered.

It’s a convenient way to travel between Brisbane and Cairns. So why wait? Hop aboard and let the journey begin!


Jocelyn travelled on the Spirit of Queensland at her own cost.
Published 20 July 2023

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If you enjoyed this train-inspired post, you might also enjoy these:

A Croquet-lover’s Guide to Exploring the Wide Bay
All Aboard the Mary Valley Rattler

 

 

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