Learn How K’gari Cultural Tours Connects Past and Present

I THOUGHT I had a good grasp of K’gari (Fraser Island), but it wasn’t until I spent two days with K’gari Cultural Tours that I truly began to appreciate the deep and enduring connection that Aboriginal people have with this extraordinary place.

K’gari, the world’s largest sand island and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is famous for its pure wongari (dingo) population and the eerie remains of the SS Maheno, drawing tourists from all over. The island even played a secret role during World War II as a training ground for Z Force commandos.

With three decades of media experience in the Fraser Coast region, I knew that, and more.

I was on K’gari in 2014 when 450 Butchulla people gathered to hear Justice Berna Collier recognise them as native title holders. In 2010, I spent a week on the island with veteran photographer Darran Leal, capturing its stunning wildlife and landscapes.

Yet, despite that, my understanding of the island’s Indigenous culture remained relatively basic.

Enter Luke Barrowcliffe, a guide for K’gari Cultural Tours, whose knowledge and passion for sharing his heritage brought K’gari to life in a way I’d never experienced before.

Luke’s family ties to the island run deep, with connections to several of K’gari’s iconic elders, including his cultural mentor, Aunty Olga Miller—a respected historian, artist, and author. His mother, NaiNai Bird, illustrated several of Aunty Olga’s books, including Fraser Island Legends and Legends of Fraser Island.

With Luke as a tour guide, I didn’t just visit K’gari—I experienced it through the eyes of someone whose ancestry is linked with the island’s history. His storytelling and insights were fascinating. Keep reading as I relive my adventure.

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Unexpected Adventure Exploring K’gari

I joined the tour by chance. Friends Jill Byrnes and Jan Hollier needed a third person for a customised tour, a pilot event for the company’s plans. Since I had the time available, they didn’t have to ask me twice!

The barge ride from River Heads to K’gari was a scenic journey, with the promise of adventure. We soaked in the panoramic views of the Great Sandy Strait, anticipating what lay ahead.

Our brief stop at Kingfisher Bay Resort offered a chance to gather last-minute supplies. With our caffeine fix and provisions in hand, we were ready to delve into the Aboriginal culture and natural wonders of K’gari.

Secluded Aboriginal Shell Middens

Our first stop was at a secluded spot where ancient shell middens dot the landscape.

“This is not a spot where people would usually come,” Luke said.

“It’s among mangroves, but mangroves were a productive source of food for our mob. Here, Aboriginal people gathered to feast on shellfish. They threw the shells away, which built up over thousands of years. All around Australia’s coastline, you’ll find middens like these.

“What’s also interesting is these middens have a lot of stone artefacts amongst them. There’s also ceramics and glass from the transition period of contact with Europeans.”

The shells, stones, ceramics, and glass in various colours and shapes fascinated us. We could have stayed longer, but there was more of K’gari to see.

To read more on K’gari’s shell middens, visit Memoirs of the Queensland Museum.

A Lesson in Crafting String with Cottonwood

As we headed back to the car, Luke gathered small branches from a cottonwood tree. He had a plan for a later activity—we would strip the branches with our thumbnails to reveal the inner fibre, from which we’d make string for crafting baskets from palm fronds.

“It’s the inner bark you’re aiming for,” he said. “Use your thumbnail to peel back the fibre. You’ll need pieces that are about a metre long. Your nail acts like a scraper. Our women used to grow their nails long for tasks like this, and for handling prickly, toxic items.”

Given my habit of biting fingernails, I felt inadequate for stripping the bark and inner fibre, so I used a small kitchen knife instead.

Ungowa: From European Arrivals to Modern Picnics

When we stopped at Ungowa on the island’s south-western shore, there was no kitchen in sight; only towering eucalyptus trees and a stunning view across the Great Sandy Strait to the mainland.

Butchulla legends recount that long before the site became a regular access point from Hervey Bay and a base for the forestry department, Aboriginal people watched the first European ships sail up the Strait.

“Our mob couldn’t comprehend what they were seeing. They knew beforehand that something was coming, though, because the message had been passed up the coast from Sydney. Each group, on seeing the ship, sent a smoke signal to neighbouring groups that something strange was in the ocean. They’d never seen a ship like that. They were spooked and superstitious.”

Today, Ungowa is a place where visitors can take a break from exploring K’gari, set up a picnic lunch and admire the sweeping views right through to Bauple Mountain near Tiaro.

Shaded by the eucalyptus trees, we enjoyed the picnic lunch prepared by the team at K’gari Cultural Tours. It included roast beef sandwiches with quandong relish, native bush tomatoes, and warrigal greens.

A highlight for me was the citrus flavour of Sobah’s Lemon Aspen Pilsner, a non-alcoholic craft beer made on the Gold Coast with native fruits and spices. Sobah’s core range includes Lemon Aspen Pilsner, Finger Lime Cerveza, Pepperberry IPA, and Davidson Plum GF Ale.

Ancient Trees and Shipwreck Mystique

Tour guide Luke Barrowcliffe shows Jill Byrne (centre) and Jan Hollier a scar tree on K’gari.

After lunch, we continued our tour and photographed a scar tree, a reminder of the Aboriginal presence and traditional practices. These ancient trees bear scars from where Aboriginal people removed bark or wood to craft canoes, shelters, shields, containers, and tools, without harming the tree itself.

We explored Central Station, which in the early 20th century served as a logging camp where workers harvested valuable timber, including the renowned satinay and kauri pine trees. A lush rainforest showcased the island’s unique ecosystem.

“Experts estimate the creek here has been running for over 2000 years,” Luke said. “Rainwater is filtered through the sand for over 100 years before it comes back up through the spring.”

At Central Station, we collected berries like the fruit of crab apple trees to include in our menu.

“Look for yellowish berries fallen on the ground,” Luke said. “We know a lot of our edible fruits and berries are ripe once they have fallen onto the ground.”

The crab apple berries were tart, somewhat akin to green apples. They’re used in cooking and made into sauces, jams, or jellies to balance their tartness with sweetness.

We also sampled the small, reddish tart berries of the Lilly Pilly tree, and tasted Midyim berries with a cinnamon-like taste that would be at home in any dish calling for cinnamon.

About mid-afternoon, we set off to the 75 Mile Beach on the eastern side of the island.

As we approached the Maheno shipwreck, the rusted hull emerged through the misty rain like a ghostly sentinel. The remnants of the once-proud ocean liner stood in stark contrast to the serene beauty surrounding it. The sight was haunting and awe-inspiring, a poignant reminder of the power of nature and the passing of time.

Just before sunset, we made our way along the beach towards The Haven, where we’d stay overnight, looking for a spot to fetch eugaries (aka pipis) for dinner.

Eugarie Twist: Gathering Dinner on K’gari

There’s a fine art in finding eugaries. Luke had it perfected. Twisting his feet side to side in the sand close to the water’s edge and scooping up eugaries that would become our food that night.

I imagined anyone from the Twist era of the 1960s would have a ball, reminiscing about the popular dance craze while fetching their dinner.

While Jan took up the challenge, Jill and I were hesitant; Jill used a cuttlefish to dig into the sand without luck. I was too busy taking photos and didn’t want to get sand in my camera, so I recorded the moment instead.

Luke and Jan collected dozens of eugaries and stored them in a basket made from a palm frond, tied together with “string” from a cottonwood tree.

Driving back to The Haven after sundown, Luke spotted a bandy-bandy snake in the car’s headlights. By the time we stopped, and I had my Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra phone camera ready, it had disappeared into the dune.

Bandy-bandy snakes, famous for their striking black and white stripes, are one of Australia’s iconic reptiles.

The word “bandy” means to toss around, describing the way these snakes move. Unlike their more dangerous counterparts, bandy-bandy snakes frighten off predators by raising and looping their bodies in the air, presenting a provocative silhouette before taking the safest exit.

Once we had settled into our accommodation, Jill, Jan, and I relaxed with our BYO red wine. Meanwhile, Luke slipped into his chef persona and whipped up a delicious eugarie risotto, garnished with lemon-scented myrtle powder and native parsley. The food was delicious.

Morning Feast: Pancakes and Finger Lime Marmalade

The next morning, Luke was still in chef mode, whipping up batches of Apple & Cinnamon Pancake batter. He served the pancakes with spreads, including native honey, Roasted Macadamia Spread, Riberry Jam, Australian Desert Quandong Jam, Rainforest Plum Jam, Bush Apple Spread, and marmalade using Australian Finger Limes.

So many spreads meant more pancakes for us! My favourite was the Australian Finger Lime Marmalade. It combined the familiar taste of traditional marmalade with an exotic twist from the finger lime. The initial flavour was tangy, with a bright citrus burst. This was complemented by a subtle sweetness that balanced the tartness, making it both refreshing and delicious.

We also had the options of sliced banana and a dollop of Greek-style yoghurt, along with Lilly Pilly or Bush Crab Apple berries, and native tea or wattleseed-infused coffee.

Fed and ready for another day’s adventure, we were soon back in the 4WD, heading along 75 Mile Beach on the eastern side of the island. Our destinations were Waddy Point, the Champagne Rock Pools, and the Indian Head Lookout.

Luke said the traditional owners, the Butchulla people, have exclusive commercial access* to areas like Waddy Point, where other commercial operators have restricted access to certain locations.

Jill Byrnes captures dunes at Waddy Point.

Stories of Tradition and Spiritual Bond

We drove through Happy Valley, a popular tourist hub with amenities like a café, restaurant, bar, general store, holiday rentals, and a retreat, surrounded by dunes and sea views. The town’s prime location makes it ideal for visiting nearby attractions such as the Maheno Shipwreck, Eli Creek, and The Pinnacles.

Luke spoke of his ancestors journeying to this part of K’gari for a tailor festival, following the abundant food sources dictated by the seasons. He emphasised the significance of these journeys, describing them as part of the Big Walk that Aboriginal people undertook across Australia.

“The walks were not just physical journeys but also opportunities for gathering knowledge, sharing stories through song and dance, and taking part in ceremonies,” he said.

These experiences enhanced their understanding of culture and connection to the land, reflecting on the universal human desire for travel and the sense of place the land brings.

Near Indian Head, Luke recounted his childhood experiences.

“When I was young, I was taught that I wasn’t allowed to touch that rock because of its spiritual power,” he began.

“Only initiated men could go on the rock or touch it. Every time we came up here, Auntie Olga would be on at me, saying don’t touch that rock!

“I was under 16 and hadn’t done any ceremonial stuff. So, I waited until I had done the ceremony, then walked up the headland with hiking boots on.

“Not feeling anything, I believed I couldn’t connect with the spiritual power of the rock. But as we were driving back down the beach, I was near the Maheno and my feet started tingling and buzzing. I was full of jittery energy. I’ve never had another experience like that.”

The trail up Indian Head (either from the southwest or north) remains closed because of its cultural and historical significance to the Butchulla People.

Insights into Fish Traps and Sacred Land

At the Champagne Pools near Indian Head, Luke explained the rocks created natural fish traps that Butchulla people used during the tailor season.

“In traditional times, we might have built the wall on the northern side to improve the traps’ functionality to trap a greater number of fish as the tide rose.”

On the return journey, he talked about the formation of K’gari’s sand dunes, which the University of Sunshine Coast describes as “part of the longest and most complete age sequence of coastal dune systems in the world and are still evolving.”

Luke said the outcrops of dark brown coffee rock on the beaches were remnants of ancient layered organic matter, now exposed after the coastline has receded.

“The coffee rock is an interesting geological process that has taken millions of years to form, and then millions of years more of weathering as the rocks become exposed.”

He also recounted creation stories and explained the significance of men’s and women’s places, along with special birthing sites respected by the Butchulla people.

“Aboriginal society was gender-segregated, so we had men’s and women’s areas. Traditionally, all the children (girls and boys) grew up under the guidance and care of the woman, until the boys were old enough (10-12 years of age) to learn to be hunters and warriors with the men.

“Outside of having specific gendered areas, even in our communal areas, men, and women would remain in their groups. This is quite different to how we live today.”

These fascinating conversations, and many more, keep us engaged throughout the drive back across K’gari to meet the barge at dusk.

Reflections on Culture, Nature, and Adventure

As we farewelled K’gari, I reflected on our experiences in this incredible place. Luke’s storytelling and local knowledge brought the island’s history and the Butchulla people’s culture to life.

From exploring ancient fish traps at Champagne Pools to learning about the significance of places like Central Station and Indian Head, every step was an adventure. To see wongari (dingoes) roam along the beaches highlighted the island’s wild beauty and unique ecosystem.

I took away not just memories of stunning landscapes and fascinating tales, but also a greater appreciation for the connections between people, nature, and culture that define this special place on the east coast of Queensland.

Book an Adventure with K’gari Cultural Tours

To explore the unique and rich heritage of K’gari, get in touch with Luke Barrowcliffe via email at luke@studiokgari.com.au. Or, you can reach the team at info@kgariculturaltours.com.au or visit their office at 2/52 Ariadne Street, River Heads, QLD 4655. For more information and to book a tour, visit their website at kgariculturaltours.com.au.

Guided by those with deep ties to the island, you’ll have the chance to immerse yourself in stunning landscapes and encounter K’gari’s unique wildlife.

 

 

PHOTO GALLERY

 

Tips for Travellers

Preparing for a Cultural Experience on K’gari

Experiencing K’gari through Butchulla knowledge is something to approach with care — and preparation.

Island conditions can shift quickly, and thoughtful planning allows you to stay present rather than distracted by logistics.

For travellers wanting cover that understands real-life health histories and regional trips, AllClear Travel Insurance specialises in policies designed for people, not perfection.

Lightweight packing organisers make ferry transfers and sandy gear easier to manage. And sun-smart essentials are part of respecting both your wellbeing and the environment you’re walking on.

If you’re planning your trip, here are a few trusted resources:

→ Explore travel insurance with AllClear
→ Browse travel organisers with Bagsmart
→ Browse sun-smart gear and island essentials with Amazon Australia
→ Discover Australian-inspired skincare with Kakadu Plum Co

(Affiliate links — supporting Jocelyn Magazine at no extra cost to you.)

 

DISCLOSURE

This experience, and/or my experiences, were run as an independent Traditional Owner tourism operation. Being recognised as Native Title common law holders for K’gari and the surrounding mainland and sea Country provides all Butchulla descendants with the opportunity to run their own commercial enterprises on their traditional homeland Country and share their culture more broadly. Luke Barrowcliffe is in the process of building his commercial operations structure so he can host these experiences more often and make them bookable online. Native Title rights and interests also provide Traditional Owners with the legal freedom to incorporate bushfood and medicine tastings into our experiences; this is an exclusive element of Butchulla culture tours that mainstream operators are not afforded.